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Old 03-25-2005, 11:40 PM   #326
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Brook, those triangle style exhaust flanges, is that something you made, or bought somewhere? I'm having a hard time finding some.
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Old 03-26-2005, 01:09 AM   #327
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Used to be able to buy those at Napa for $20 a set.. www.summitracing.com has them too. They are commonly used on header collectors. Called header reducers..
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Old 03-26-2005, 04:18 AM   #328
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I was also looking at the straps. With my experience with the ratchetstyle strap for my fourwheelers, if exposed to repeated wet conditions the straps will rot out and eventually break. I've left a couple new ones in the bed of my truck for a couple weeks and when I've gone to use them again they are toast.
The exterior mounted battery box we have on our Crash truck at the station has the top held on with a set of heavy rubber stretch hooks that connect to stainless seats that conform to the rubber hooks. They have been exposed to the weather for years and see alot of abuse and have never rotted out. I could take a picture of what I am talking about and it might be something you could use to come up with an idea. I'm sure they are a part you could find at any mariner of fishing boat supplier. If you ever get a chance to check out a store that is oriented toward the commercial fisherman it is worth a look. On a whim me and Eric stopped by the mariner supplier here in Kodiak just to see what they had for building bumpers and they had alot of heavy duty components, the oddball stuff that made you go why didn't I think of that, and the stuff that could take the abuse of the elements and the effects of sal****er.
Just some suggestions.
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:03 AM   #329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddening
Just a question about the batteries.. it looks like they might want to walk out sideways if the strap loosens up even the tiniest bit, especially with the hard sideways jounces many off road trucks see. I've many different variations of those straps and water and cold seems to cause them to loosen up, at inoppotune times... like when you're driving a curvy road and the barrel you've been carrying but never got around to taking out yet tries to roll out of the truck bed.. Any sort of restraint, or maybe a couple of smaller straps going to be going over the top (now the side) of the batteries or anything similar to restrain them?
Dude, do you really think that I would not make sure the batteries could not slide out of their mount? If you read my previous post, I have addressed this issue. I'll try to get better pictures if I was not clear the first time.

My intention is to find a SS web strap and modify it to be used with the ratchet mechanism, but I dont know if I'll be able to find one.

I haven't had such bad luck with ratchet straps, and hopefully I wont. If I do, no big deal, its easy to replace. One advantage this strap will have, over most, is that it will not see any UV rays.

Dusty, ever check out a west marine catalog?
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Old 03-26-2005, 02:18 PM   #330
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No need to get worked up over my question... All I was thinking was something so simple as a 90 bracket that could bolt to the mount below and restrain the battery from any possible sideways motion in the event that the strap should loosen up in any way... Sorry to question your fab skills I guess.. if that's what you take that as.
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Old 03-26-2005, 02:56 PM   #331
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Quote:
Dusty, ever check out a west marine catalog?
No I haven't. Where are they located out of? They have some good stuff? The store here in Kodiak had latches we could use for spare tire carriers, Oddball steel fishing components that we acctually took and used in a design of a bumper, special poly bushings, trailer spindles that we are thinking of modifying into spare tire carrier spindles, synthetic winch rope used in commercial fishing, heavy duty winch hooks the likes of I had never seen in the 4wheeling world, and the list goes on and on......
It is definately one of my favorite stores in town now. But you have to go in with an open mind or you might just walk by the next great innovation. Things built for the marine world are definately built to last because of the harsh enviroment and would work awsome in the offroading world.
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:46 PM   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddening
No need to get worked up over my question.
Nobodys worked up...

Here are some better pics of what keeps the batterys from sliding out the sides. I dont want to put any mechanically fastened brackets on there because I want the batters to be easily removable for use in remote welding.

In all the years of running this buggy, I have never had a ratchet strap come loose. I've had cargo that was held by it deform and allow slack, but never the other way around. If it doesnt work, I'll add some bolt on brackets on each end of the batteries, and across the middle.

Notice the flanges on the battery at the edges of the bracket. The bracket fits nice and tight between the two flanges. This is the fit that keeps the batterys from moving side to side. The curvature of drive shaft tubing keeps the battery from moving for and aft. But your right, if the strap fails, they batterys will be able to fall out. I'll see if I can double up the straps, but I dont thing there is enough room in the ratchet mechanism.
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:56 PM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak Dodge
No I haven't. Where are they located out of? They have some good stuff? The store here in Kodiak had latches we could use for spare tire carriers, Oddball steel fishing components that we acctually took and used in a design of a bumper, special poly bushings, trailer spindles that we are thinking of modifying into spare tire carrier spindles, synthetic winch rope used in commercial fishing, heavy duty winch hooks the likes of I had never seen in the 4wheeling world, and the list goes on and on......
It is definately one of my favorite stores in town now. But you have to go in with an open mind or you might just walk by the next great innovation. Things built for the marine world are definately built to last because of the harsh enviroment and would work awsome in the offroading world.
Definately! My tow rope is 1-1/4" stuff I got from a comercial fisherman. Been draging it through the mud for 3-4 years now, and prolly done over 100 recoveries with it, and its still working great. I was giving Speedo a good 20 foot of slack on our trip to the caribou hills year before last, a good 5-6 times. Marine grade = Good stuff.

Here is a link to West Marine
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Old 03-26-2005, 06:01 PM   #334
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The exhaust is finished, but wont be bolted back up till I pull the transmission and transfercases out.
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Old 03-26-2005, 06:37 PM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
Definately! My tow rope is 1-1/4" stuff I got from a comercial fisherman. Been draging it through the mud for 3-4 years now, and prolly done over 100 recoveries with it, and its still working great. I was giving Speedo a good 20 foot of slack on our trip to the caribou hills year before last, a good 5-6 times. Marine grade = Good stuff.

Here is a link to West Marine
That link ROCKS! I **** near spent my whole paycheck but all I ended up getting where the leather boating shoes:

and the music CD "BIG COCONUTS" by Gene Mitchell a collection of island music with nautical lyrics.


Good site Brook! I saved it to my favorites and i will definately be using it in the future. Thanks.



EDIT: I promise I won't mention Big Cocunuts or Gene Mitchell again in this thread
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:28 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
Nobodys worked up...

Here are some better pics of what keeps the batterys from sliding out the sides. I dont want to put any mechanically fastened brackets on there because I want the batters to be easily removable for use in remote welding.

In all the years of running this buggy, I have never had a ratchet strap come loose. I've had cargo that was held by it deform and allow slack, but never the other way around. If it doesnt work, I'll add some bolt on brackets on each end of the batteries, and across the middle.

Notice the flanges on the battery at the edges of the bracket. The bracket fits nice and tight between the two flanges. This is the fit that keeps the batterys from moving side to side. The curvature of drive shaft tubing keeps the battery from moving for and aft. But your right, if the strap fails, they batterys will be able to fall out. I'll see if I can double up the straps, but I dont thing there is enough room in the ratchet mechanism.
Well way cool.. Now that I see how the flanges on the battery are there's no way they're coming out of there. I wasn't familiar with the battery design, I thought there were like some other variations of that battery I've seen where there isn't anything on the botton of the round cells. Sooo.. nevermind.
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Old 03-27-2005, 09:29 AM   #337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddening
Well way cool.. Now that I see how the flanges on the battery are there's no way they're coming out of there. I wasn't familiar with the battery design, I thought there were like some other variations of that battery I've seen where there isn't anything on the botton of the round cells. Sooo.. nevermind.
Man, I hope they all have that flange, I dont want to have to re-do the mount when these batteries give up the ghost.
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:43 PM   #338
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Just an FYI. The ratchet strap I was using to hold my OBA tank under my 4Runner broke at the sewn seam last year. I won't use one to hold critical components in place anymore.
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Old 03-27-2005, 05:34 PM   #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyminator
Just an FYI. The ratchet strap I was using to hold my OBA tank under my 4Runner broke at the sewn seam last year. I won't use one to hold critical components in place anymore.
Hey brook you should check out this link
http://www.cepcotool.com/special/hookz.htm

These are rated at 3300lbs


webbing breaking strength of 6000lbs
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Old 03-27-2005, 06:25 PM   #340
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I never thought about the stitching coming out. I have some kevlar thread that I use for tying, similar to this... http://www.hookhack.com/threads.html#Anchor-KEVLA-43255

I'll stitch over the existing stitches for extra insurance. Im still not worried about the strength of the webbing. Hell, I tie snowmachines down to my trailer with the same straps. 800 lb working strength should be plenty for two ~35 lb batteries.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:42 PM   #341
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I've been working on finishing up the last bit of plumbing for quite a while now. Im using as much stainless as possible, as I dont ever want to have to do this again, and it turns out its actually cheaper than the alumanized stuff you buy at the parts store. Looks alot nicer too. The stainless braided stuff ISNT cheap though, but its definately going to last a long time, and will be much less likely to be damaged or have to be replaced due to abrasion or heat damage.

Fuel lines first...

Here is a picture of the Rigid Bender I purchased, since the regular bender I had didnt provide enough leverage to bend the 3/8" 304 SS Mechanical tubing I'm using. It was a good purchase at 50 bucks, and allows for 180 degree bends. And its marked to provide easy and accurate bend locations.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:46 PM   #342
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The local industrial fitting supply store was out of the proper 90* compression fittings so I cut some other ones apart, and welded them up.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:50 PM   #343
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These are bulkhead unions that I installed so that I could just remove the end of the hard line for removal of the fuel tank. One is stock, the other I welded an AN fitting on one end to adapt it to the AN Russel hose end.
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Old 04-05-2005, 08:57 PM   #344
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These are some fittings I made up for the TH-400. I tool a regular 3/8 Pipe to 3/8" compression fitting, and machined the threads to 3/8" Straight Pipe. Then welded some bent tubing to them, and then welded AN fittings onto the end of them. These will be coupled to more ss hard line with some russel braided hose and AN swivel fittings, similar to the fuel lines.
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:00 PM   #345
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This is the filter and temp sender housing thats plumbed into my return line (the upper port.) The hard line on the right hand side is connected to the hard line in the next picture. (all one piece)
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:03 PM   #346
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another line, like this one, will be bent to match the contours of the bottom of the cab, and then the frame as it reaches toward the transmission coolers.
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:15 PM   #347
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Fuel pump mount, and cooler plumbing almost finished
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:23 PM   #348
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Brook, not to sound gay or anything, but you are amazing.
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:58 PM   #349
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man o man that is some crazy stuff right there

good job brook keep it goin

cant wait to see that thing at the M&G

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Old 04-05-2005, 10:28 PM   #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
In the past I have used some 3m tread tape to do this, but when your boots are full of mud, it doesnt work very well. Not to mention it eventually wears out or peels off. So while I was at the cnc plasma cutters place, I had him cut these out of some 14 ga steel. I tig welded them on, and bent them over the pipe with a hammer and finished welding them on. Im only putting them in places that will see the most foot trafic. I hope they work well

Can I get two of these for my AKFabShop rear tube bumper? I will gladly cough up the dough for two...let me know!
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