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Old 04-06-2005, 06:07 AM   #351
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Where's that bling bling smiley??

I hate looking at this thread cause it makes my "fab work" look like a monkey done it.... so I'll just go in the garage now and cry
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:20 AM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate
Where's that bling bling smiley??

I hate looking at this thread cause it makes my "fab work" look like a monkey done it.... so I'll just go in the garage now and cry
A monkey did do your fab work
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Old 04-06-2005, 06:30 AM   #353
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I wish cause then the Jeep would be done and I'd be wheeling right now
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Old 04-06-2005, 03:03 PM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Georgia
Can I get two of these for my AKFabShop rear tube bumper? I will gladly cough up the dough for two...let me know!
Give me a few weeks so I can get some ones cut out of stainless. That way when the paint wears off them, you wont have to deal with the rust.
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:00 PM   #355
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Since the 205 is clocked flat, and the 203 is upside down, I have never had a good way to verify the fluild levels. Basically, all I have been doing is filling them while they are on the bench, then hoping for the best the rest of the season. This time I took the time to put a sight gage on both cases (forgot to take pics of the 203 gage).

Anyway, the fittings and vinyl tubing is all from home depot. The protective tubing is parts from a mirror off an old 72 GMC beach truck. None of the pieces of stainless were long enough, so I but welded them together, and bent them around with some heat from the ol' oxy/act torch. I scrapped one because I put too much heat on the inside of the bend. The next try I just focused the heat along the outside of the bend, and it worked well.
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:03 PM   #356
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Stop making me feel stupid Loooks good , PM me you addy so I can ship this tcase knob nad a check down to you
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:09 PM   #357
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The last of the 3/8 plumbing. FINALLY finished. I still need to re-plumb the rear brake lines, but I dont know if I have it in me. Im getting a bit sick of bending tubing, crawling under the truck, makeing a little adjustment, crawling back under, over and over and over.
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:11 PM   #358
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thats awesome brook, some of the stuff you come up with amazes me... keep up the good work!
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Old 04-07-2005, 10:53 PM   #359
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Are you going to support the fuel line and the tranny cooler line somewhere around the front of the radiator?? it looks like there is a lot of tube hanging in space?? Maybe it's the pic?
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:51 AM   #360
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your attention to detail rocks

i was rereading some of your original write ups of when u kept ripping your steering box right off the frame ..boy that rig has come a long way since then .

thanks Brook i always enjoy reading up on the beast ! now u should enter it into TTC 2006 u got my vote
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Old 04-08-2005, 12:56 AM   #361
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i know this might sound like a silly question brook ,but do u keep a list of the parts and part # incase of failure /damage seems like alot of parts to remember . like when ya ask for a caddy distributor for a chevy !

and the napa guy just looks at ys cross eyed
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Old 04-08-2005, 06:58 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMedic
Are you going to support the fuel line and the tranny cooler line somewhere around the front of the radiator?? it looks like there is a lot of tube hanging in space?? Maybe it's the pic?
There is alot of tube between the cooler and filter, but Im not going to put a support there. There will be one right where the two lines cross the spring cross member though. I want to make sure there is enough strength there to prevent the end of the cooler from breaking off.
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Old 04-08-2005, 07:03 AM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix-It
i know this might sound like a silly question brook ,but do u keep a list of the parts and part # incase of failure /damage seems like alot of parts to remember . like when ya ask for a caddy distributor for a chevy !

and the napa guy just looks at ys cross eyed
I do keep alot of part numbers, especially for special items that were very hard to find, such as any of the 6 Non-OEM brake lines. I keep a basic list written under the lid of one of the ammo cans thats mounted on the truck. That way, if I ever break something on the trail, and dont have a spare, I can hopefully get someone to either deliver it, or send someone out to get it for me without any confusion.
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Old 04-08-2005, 07:01 PM   #364
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You should write a book Brook! "The Alaskan 4x4 Survival Guide"
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Old 04-08-2005, 07:26 PM   #365
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I have considered that, but it would only be a success If it was full of interviews of other people. Speedo is the prime example.
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Old 04-08-2005, 08:36 PM   #366
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it would be cool! I have always wanted to do an "Alaskan Offroad Buggies" book - rigs like Speedo's, yours, your Dad's old v-6 rig, the aluminum 6x6, the 6x6 Mutt that is running around, that giant cabin on wheels with Rolligon tires....lots of pics, and technical descriptions.......it would be an awesome collection
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:17 AM   #367
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In '92 the hunting season was a bit wierd because of something that ADF&G tried that year. You couldn't leave the road until midnight of the 7th if you were going to hunt more than 5 miles from the road. The season didn't end any later than usual so the gravel pit at Eureka filled up with the largest collection of buggys that I have ever seen that year. At midnight everyone left the gravel pit and IIRC there were about 40 rigs in line heading in, it was an awesome sight.
But that is stuff for a different thread all different sizes and shapes of buggys in one place at one time. I've got some pictures from that year that I'll see if I can dig up but they will go on a different thread.

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Old 04-13-2005, 09:54 PM   #368
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I got the tranny and t-cases mounted up today. Built a new t-case crossmember to make instal a bit easier. All the plumbing is blown down and tighetned up (except for the fittings that will need to be removed for painting). Exhaust is installed with new gaskets, and black RTV. I built a CO2 tank mount too, and installed a bunch of gussets (only about 6 more left)

Thanks to ryan, dan, and brian for helping me stab the tranny/t-case combo.
And doug for helping me haul a 16 foot long peice of tread plate out of the woods
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Old 04-13-2005, 11:00 PM   #369
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i know it was said before ...but i really like size/thickness of metals you choose . i need to learn that skill . i keep over building and at times i really hurt myself going over board . i need to learn when to apply thicker metal and when i can get away with thinner lighter metal . that is a skill highly over looked .

and your gussets look so clean . those cut with a torch or plasma ? i know i cant get it that clean with my grinder 45's sure but not those clean looking radius's .
looks like you have your bed,boxes and final welding to do and u should be in on the trail real soon !

when i see rick pewe in Az this summer i will put in a good word for ya i want to see that bad boy on the cover !
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:01 AM   #370
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The gussets are mostly 1/8" A36 plate, I buy it in 8" wide strips to make handling and storage easier. The gussets along the very rear tube, the one that has the angled receiver hitch tube in it, has 3/16 gussets since it will see quite a bit of force. The CO2 mount is all 18 ga cold rolled sheet, and there is small doubler plates welded onto it where the latches are attached. I'll get more pics of that later. I cut all the brackets with the old miller spectrum 500 I bought from grant. Its getting old, but if you steady your hand well, it still cuts pretty good. All the brackets are finished with a norzon 50 grit flap discs.
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Old 04-14-2005, 09:35 AM   #371
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Brook,

Curious on "a36". I was talking to my brother about that and he was like "who the hell uses that kinda of system". He was saying normally it would be like 1018 or something like that. What "system" is A36?
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:00 AM   #372
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I use a chalk line to follow on steel, and an overhead marker on aluminum and galvanized steel. The overhead marker stands heat very well. I hold the plasma torch in one hand. I support my torch holding hand with my otherhand index finger and use my pinkey as a pivot/extension point. I've found that makes it easy to cut stable. Even with a CNC plasma table I still end up cutting a lot of stuff by hand. Its not worth the time to enter it in when I only need one. Make cardboard, trace, cut. Using a fence can help too. A small section of stove pipe would make radii a little easier if you just can't get steady enough.
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Old 04-14-2005, 10:09 AM   #373
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I think Brook goes through more cardboard than any one person I know...but its a good thing... All of his stuff turns out AWESOME...
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:33 AM   #374
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Brook your skills are simply amazing. Lots of good ideas,great skills and great applications. Makes me look at my projects and only hope I could be half that good someday. Keep up the greta work. akraven
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:26 PM   #375
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A36, A514, etc are very common terms in Industry. Those are basically structural steel designations, just like A53A-E is a very common Industrial piping grade.

Machine shops are kinda a different critter. 1018 would be very similar to A36 as they are both low carbon "mild" steel. Most machined parts are not ment to be parts of weldments, so they are generally spec'd to higher grades of steel because weldments generally require a low carbon content. 4140 would be very common in a repair oriented machine shop, or even 1045. 316 or 316L Stainless is also very common as is 6061.

In fab work, 5053 and 6063 are common aluminums, and 304 is a common stainless.

I'll try to get a better definition out of my steel supply book later.


Carboard? LOL, I should be buying it by the pound. I've been buying heavy sheet stock from Fred Meyer lately, it works pretty good. I like the backing from note books better though, but they are often not large enough.

I like silver sharpies for most of my layout and cardboard tracing uses. I have used the overhead markers on aluminum, thanks to grant, and those do work well for aluminum.

People get all worked up about Plasma, but really, I find oxy acet to be an easier process for stuff over 1/8", Mostly because of the torch design. If I could only have one, I would definately have oxy/act torches. Without a doubt. Both processes require practice... Before I had ever used a plasma, I used to read all this hype how Plasma is so sweet, and so much more accurate, and so much easier to use. It was just that... HYPE. Getting a plasma, in no way, will make you a better fabricator. All (well, 90%) it does is save time, IMO.
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