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Build-up Threads Long term build up threads only please. This forum will be very heavily moderated. If you have a question about content, pm Logjam before posting it.

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Old 05-05-2005, 09:19 PM   #401
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Heres a few pics of the night run...
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:39 PM   #402
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as far as the winters mods go...

The rear suspension handles high speed road use better now that it has more overall triangulation. The shorter length links dont seem to have a negative effect on performance. The new geometry (with the adjusters all the way down) appears to provide less anti squat, although I cannot swear to it. There is less resistance to articulation because of the new threaded links, but now that I have moved the shocks to behind the axle, I have less overall articulation. The spring rate is now not enough because there is more overall load on them due to the longer and most likely heavier chassis, and more rearward fuel tank location. Also, even with the shocks mounted properly (vs where they were mounted up on the links), they do not provide enough compression damping for loaded down/high speed use. Dual shocks should cure this problem, or maybe coil overs.

The bed storage area is great! I now have more than enough room for all the gear I carry, and then some. The engine stays much cooler now that the radiator and fan combination breathes much easier. I will still tweak with this system some, since Its still possible to overheat the engine, although its no longer a problem of much significance. I have a high output pump I can install, or I might build a shroud so I can run dual Taurus fans. The batteries seem to be holding fine, and so far I really like having two batteries wired in parallel.

The new link I will build to replace the bent one will be fabricated rather than tubing/pipe. It will cause a slight loss of ground clearance, but not enough to matter for the kind of wheeling I do here in Alaska.

The engine is running well, and so far I really like the higher stall torque converter.
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'03 SRW - Street/Race Truck build 66/483|Coffman UDC|BBi Stg 3's|Raptor 150|ATS Dual CP3|ATS Stg 6 Big Shaft|PCS TCM-2000|11.04@123.5
'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
907Diesel

Last edited by bgreen776; 05-05-2005 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 05-14-2005, 06:43 PM   #403
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Oh, man, your rig and fab skills are finer'n frog hair! If this thread ever fell into the hands of the street rod world, the bozos at Boyd Coddingtons would commit mass suicide!
I am impressed!
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Old 05-15-2005, 07:34 AM   #404
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Ditto what Craig said if you havn't seen our build "Extreme Makeover Jeep Style" I think you will see alot of ideas we have gleaned from people here. In some ways we have to work alot like you do we can't afford the latest and greatist new widgit to to hit the market so we adapt things like our new rear fenders . Thanks for the great site and insperation
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Old 05-18-2005, 04:25 PM   #405
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Well, its not pretty, but its hell for stout and only weighs a couple lbs more than the old arm. All thats left is tabs for the brake lines.

The main portion of the arm is 2x3x.125 rectangular tubing, with .125 thick plates welded on both sides to give an effective .250 wall. I did this so that I would have maximum resistance to vertical bending loads, and save weight by having a thin .125" thick top. The bottom is .1875 for dent resistance. The 1.5" B7 threaded rod was removed from the old arm and spot / plug / rosette welded into the new one in two places, on both sides, and the top. Everything other than the rosette welds was done with TIG.

After running that piece of B7 for several years, I noticed no appreciable increase in slop. Never greased it, except for upon original assembly. I ran it in every kind of mud imaginable, including salt water silt. It did show light pitting from rust, but still felt as tight as the other side which was jam nutted. (is nutted a word?)

2 hrs of design and fabrication, 4 hrs of tig welding. :shaking:
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'03 SRW - Street/Race Truck build 66/483|Coffman UDC|BBi Stg 3's|Raptor 150|ATS Dual CP3|ATS Stg 6 Big Shaft|PCS TCM-2000|11.04@123.5
'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
907Diesel

Last edited by bgreen776; 05-18-2005 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 05-18-2005, 10:04 PM   #406
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I may do this same design when i build custom arms for my Dodge to replace the **** Cepeks. I would like to be able to adjust them.
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:40 PM   #407
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Wow !!!
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:54 AM   #408
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For people with less blingability, 2.5x2.5x.25 square tube fits the 1.5" nuts and 2x3 bushing kits perfectly.
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Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
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Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


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Old 05-19-2005, 08:47 AM   #409
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Or they could push their abilities a little bit, and build something to save some weight, and add strength in critical areas. I used a drill, a 4.5" grinder, and a welder to build that arm. Oh, and a piece of card board, a black magic marker, and a ruler. Anyone should be able to do that.
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'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:40 AM   #410
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Yep can't fab with out good cardboard!!
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:25 AM   #411
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I built a CNC table with a chop saw, milwakee drill, and a mig welder. Anyone should be able to do that too.
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Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
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Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:36 AM   #412
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hey Brook i have been waiting all winter to finally see your truck on the trail testing out your new mods and u give pics of the dark and all i can see is your headlights !!

but now that i am moving closer to ya i will just have to see it in person !!
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:54 AM   #413
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how come you tig welded every thing?
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Old 05-19-2005, 12:05 PM   #414
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That is pimp!
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:19 PM   #415
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Please stop with all the booty fab!
Just kidding, you do some amazing work! Well thought out and expertly crafted.
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:55 PM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sledneck
how come you tig welded every thing?
It was good practice. If you get a chance to look at it up close and in person, you can see improvement in the welds from start to finish.
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'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:10 AM   #417
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4hrs to weld that. Wow, I wouldn't have the patience! I welded up all the brackets on my rear axle yesterday and I had about 2hrs of welding time, and I thought that was alot
Getting pretty good at MIG. I've put close to a 12lb spool through my machine just these past 2 weeks.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:28 AM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
Well, its not pretty, but its hell for stout and only weighs a couple lbs more than the old arm. All thats left is tabs for the brake lines.

The main portion of the arm is 2x3x.125 rectangular tubing, with .125 thick plates welded on both sides to give an effective .250 wall. I did this so that I would have maximum resistance to vertical bending loads, and save weight by having a thin .125" thick top. The bottom is .1875 for dent resistance. The 1.5" B7 threaded rod was removed from the old arm and spot / plug / rosette welded into the new one in two places, on both sides, and the top. Everything other than the rosette welds was done with TIG.

After running that piece of B7 for several years, I noticed no appreciable increase in slop. Never greased it, except for upon original assembly. I ran it in every kind of mud imaginable, including salt water silt. It did show light pitting from rust, but still felt as tight as the other side which was jam nutted. (is nutted a word?)

2 hrs of design and fabrication, 4 hrs of tig welding. :shaking:
Brook,

How do you keep it from warpping with those long continous welds? Is TIG that much cooler temp wise?

How would you do that with a MIG welder?

Carey
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:31 AM   #419
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I just tacked it all up, and started welding at one end, swapping from side to side as I went, with about 2" long beads. TIG puts allot more heat into the part because its so slow, but I find it to be a more controlled process, so I use it as much as I can.
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'03 SRW - Street/Race Truck build 66/483|Coffman UDC|BBi Stg 3's|Raptor 150|ATS Dual CP3|ATS Stg 6 Big Shaft|PCS TCM-2000|11.04@123.5
'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
907Diesel

Last edited by bgreen776; 05-23-2005 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:50 PM   #420
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??

Updates?
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:48 AM   #421
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Still overheats during long steady climbs. Time for a different water pump.
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'03 Dually - Tow/Race Truck build 58/471 R700|PPE Dual CP3|Airdog 200|Flux3's|13.9@100 mph|667HP & 1326TQ
907Diesel
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:08 PM   #422
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I like this one:



Freak V.1?
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Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:24 PM   #423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logjam
Freak V.1?
LOL...Freak V.1 meets the Clampetts
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:30 PM   #424
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No, really. I'm 99% sure thats the tires and axles brook bought for his chevy.
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Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
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Old 10-10-2005, 12:40 PM   #425
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Brook's cheeks are all rosy...
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