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Old 12-06-2004, 12:12 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKBroncoII
alright cool, I think the 1.5" might be too big for the long arms on my cherokee. Just wondering what else was out there. It's not that it takes so long with the grinder. It's the trying to align it is what I have problems with. A grinder can't get it as round as a lathe. What size pipe did you use on your links? I can't remember.
Just use square stuff on the jeep. Its much easier to notch without a notcher and looks normal with no grinding on the bolt. Just a little of beveling for the weld root.
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Old 12-06-2004, 04:09 AM   #27
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Old 12-06-2004, 01:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
Here is a link for your standard sizes.... B7

I was running 1.5" sch 80, but will be running 1.5" sch 40.
I see they sell those couplings. May have to see if Fastener and Fire carries those stop couplings. Would work perfectly with no grinding. Just have to cut them a tad shorter. Look way long.

Last edited by AKBroncoII; 12-06-2004 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 12-06-2004, 06:46 PM   #29
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I emailed them today to get a price each. Hopefully they will sell limited quantities, for a low enough price to make them practical for our use.
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Old 12-06-2004, 07:03 PM   #30
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You emailed that place? Have you checked with Fastener and Fire to see if they have something like that? That would save me so much time on the grinder.
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Old 12-06-2004, 07:08 PM   #31
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ya, that place. Was pointless though, the email bounced back. Im going to do some more checking.
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Old 12-06-2004, 07:11 PM   #32
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****, if you get any leads let me know. I will drop by Fastener and Fire tomorrow or Wednesday.
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:42 PM   #33
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Checked on those couplings at Fire and Fastener. I was looked at like I was an idiot.
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:06 PM   #34
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When in fact it was THEM. LOL. oh well
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Old 12-09-2004, 07:37 PM   #35
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Only couplings they had were hex couplings and they were only grade 3.
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Old 12-10-2004, 08:38 PM   #36
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I finished cutting off the rest of the frame, cleaned up the shop, and started to do some mock up today. The axle is set to represent a 118" wheel base in this picture. I dont know if Im going to keep it this short, but figured I'd design around it.
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Old 12-10-2004, 09:49 PM   #37
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Way cool....
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Old 12-11-2004, 06:37 PM   #38
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I spent the first half of the day staring at the back of the buggy Didnt acomplish anything other than a head ache. I have so many ideas of how I could progress with the build, but I want to make sure I cover all the bases, and still have a clean and functional cage. At about noon, I went down to a local fabshop so I could have them CNC plasma cut some flanges to use on the cage. After watching him finish up a job, and helping him trouble shooting his plasma table, we were able to cut out one flange in about 35 seconds. One flange at home, with hand tools, takes me about 20 minutes! Awesome! (I had him make 30 total, so I should have enough for this cage, and then some )

So far no real progress to report, other than I did get one tube welded across the top of the cab. This ties the two tubes together that run along above the doors on both sides. I also have decided to lengthen the w.b. back out some, to a total of ~122". Even with the way the bed is going to be narrowed, I should end up with more flat bed space than before, but I will loose some under bed storage due to the fan shrouds Im going to fabricate. All in all, there will be more "dead/wasted" space, but the net effect will be greatly increased cooling capacity. (I HOPE!)

The radiator will be mounted 90* to what it was, and the fuel tank will be back on the chassis much further. That should help split the front to rear weight bias a little more evenly, and provide me with enough room to mount the radiator so it gets more air. The addition of a second ford taurus fan will act as a redundant back up, and provide increased cooling when I need it the most (high speed driving... Dirt roads, fast and long trails, etc).

here is an addition to the above picture, to illustrate how the fan and fuel tank will sit once its all done. The red is the fuel tank, the blue is the radiator, and the purple outline defines the area where the intake and exhaust ducting will be.
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Old 12-11-2004, 08:15 PM   #39
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Did Kurt get ahold of your control arms? Whats with the yellow
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Old 12-11-2004, 08:44 PM   #40
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Default Radiator mounting ?'s

So, you are going to pull from one side and exhaust it on the other? With the Rad centrally mounted?

Why not mount it closer to one side, still longitudinally(sp), and pull fresh air from the side like you plan and exhuast it underneath the middle? Then you could still have some underthe bed storage on the other side.

If you plan on building ducting anyway why use up all that space when you don't need to.

Just playing Devil's advocate....
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:30 PM   #41
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Your correct, the rad will be mounted with the tanks in the front, and the rear, rather than, on the left and right side.

because when Im stuck up to the frame in the mud, I want to still have proper air flow. What you mention is quite tempting though.

I also dont want to make any 90* turns in that short of space. Im sure scott could fill us in on proper ducting design, but I am guessing that with the amount of space I have, the 90* bend would be a short enough radius to hurt air flow.
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Old 12-12-2004, 10:05 PM   #42
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this is the way im leaning right now.... the radiator is mounted in there on some what of an angle.

Scott... I got a question for you. If my fans have an effective area of 377 sq inches, and are set to pull air through the radiator, how do I determine what size the intake and exhaust openings need to be?
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:29 AM   #43
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How well do those saw horses flex off road?
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:44 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
Scott... I got a question for you. If my fans have an effective area of 377 sq inches, and are set to pull air through the radiator, how do I determine what size the intake and exhaust openings need to be?
The larger the opening the lower the pressure drop. There is not necessarily an exact answer. What sort of performance numbers on the fans do you have, does it give a static pressure such as " 1.2" W.G. " ?
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Old 12-13-2004, 09:53 AM   #45
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Fan pulls in the 4000 cfm range on high.
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Old 12-13-2004, 06:39 PM   #46
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I may or may not really need any ducting, but I might want to at least have some to direct air over or under some tool boxes or something.

I could rig up some sort of test stand maybe? Any ideas?

How about I mount the fans to a wood box, with a vacuum gage on it? Just dead head them?
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Old 12-14-2004, 07:03 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
I may or may not really need any ducting, but I might want to at least have some to direct air over or under some tool boxes or something.

I could rig up some sort of test stand maybe? Any ideas?

How about I mount the fans to a wood box, with a vacuum gage on it? Just dead head them?
So there is two fans, approximately 19"x19" in size, each pulling 4,000 CFM (hopefully) ? Is that correct? Just trying to understand the numbers.
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Old 12-14-2004, 02:39 PM   #48
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Is that the flow for the Taurus fan?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackjack
Fan pulls in the 4000 cfm range on high.
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Last edited by nate; 12-14-2004 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 12-15-2004, 08:40 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Giant
So there is two fans, approximately 19"x19" in size, each pulling 4,000 CFM (hopefully) ? Is that correct? Just trying to understand the numbers.
I dont know who came up with the 4000 cfm. I seriously doubt they move that much air. My black magic fan worked almost as good as the taurus fans, and the factory probably over rated it at 2800 CFM.

The taurus fans are ~15.5" diameter, with a 6.5" motor in the middle, so I figure it has an actual effective area between the two fans of about 300 sq in.

Here is the latest chop. Should have tubes welded on this weekend.
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Last edited by bgreen776; 12-15-2004 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 12-15-2004, 08:52 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
I dont know who came up with the 4000 cfm. I seriously doubt they move that much air. My black magic fan worked almost as good as the taurus fans, and the factory probably over rated it at 2800 CFM.

The taurus fans are ~15.5" diameter, with a 6.5" motor in the middle, so I figure it has an actual effective area between the two fans of about 300 sq in.

Here is the latest chop. Should have tubes welded on this weekend.

Thats going to be pretty trick looking
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