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Old 01-23-2005, 10:34 PM   #176
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Are those arms off that S-10 you starting building a while back? I remember all that stuff was painted yellow.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:43 PM   #177
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yup
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:18 PM   #178
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How do you think the suspension would work if you did not include the allthread in the links? [now that I think about it, it seems like the freak did not have the threaded links before]

As usual, your work is very impressive.
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Old 01-24-2005, 04:45 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heepofajeep
How do you think the suspension would work if you did not include the allthread in the links? [now that I think about it, it seems like the freak did not have the threaded links before]

As usual, your work is very impressive.
I don't think it would work very well at all because there is no misalignment with those poly bushings.
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Old 01-24-2005, 05:43 PM   #180
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It seemed to work just fine last year without the new threaded arms.
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Old 01-24-2005, 05:44 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackjack
It seemed to work just fine last year without the new threaded arms.
I wonder how much more stress that put on the mounts. Or how much less there will be now with the thread rod.

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Old 01-24-2005, 05:55 PM   #182
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Hey Brook I was wondering if you could put on a welding and fabrication clinic at this years M&G? Maybe you could show us some of your secrets and techniques first hand. The trail welding is great but I know that I've never had to do any there. I could use a little schooling on the stuff that happens behind the scenes. Maybe you could include stategies of structural design of cages and bumpers.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:32 PM   #183
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These two pics show the rear suspension back when it had not mechanism to allow free flex. *ie. just the deflection allowed in the bushings

I've been running like this for several years now, and have never HAD to replace a bushing. Over those several years, I did replace a few because of some minor tearing of the flanges, but it was a preventative measure rather that reactive maintenance.

IMO, that system workes quite well for wheeling in Alaska, given similar parameters such as tire, axle, and wheel weight.

I was concerned with bracket durability with this set up, but I never gusseted any of them and upon inspection this winter, none of them are cracking.
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Last edited by bgreen776; 01-24-2005 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 01-24-2005, 06:37 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak Dodge
Hey Brook I was wondering if you could put on a welding and fabrication clinic at this years M&G? Maybe you could show us some of your secrets and techniques first hand. The trail welding is great but I know that I've never had to do any there. I could use a little schooling on the stuff that happens behind the scenes. Maybe you could include stategies of structural design of cages and bumpers.
Such a clinic was a consideration, but due to logistics and other external factors we decided to do something differnt. But you are more than welcome to pick my brain while were are there. (If I get to go, Im going to be employed at a new facility by then, so its unknow if I will be able to attend in any capacity at this point)

If anyone wanted to prepare a list of things they might be interested in discussing, send it to me a few months ahead of time, and i will do my best to be prepared for you.
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:36 PM   #185
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As usual, not a whole lot of progress, but I did have some time to work on it.

Axle end, lower link brackets...
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Last edited by bgreen776; 01-29-2005 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 01-30-2005, 05:15 AM   #186
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I'm glad the welder is working out well for you. I knew in the hands of a capable operator it would produce beauty.
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:43 PM   #187
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The start of the lower link frame end brackets.... The hole is for my exhaust...
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:49 PM   #188
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Cool, You gonna run the exhaust out the side then? That will be nice, when I'm back there hooking Doug up next time I won't choke to death

Edit: fat fingers
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:17 PM   #189
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ya, out the side. Not sure if im going to run the supertrapps or not, but if I do they will fit. The piece that goes through the bracket is actually 3" .083 wall DOM driveshaft tubing. The side plates are 3/16, and the strap across the bottom is 1/4". All much heavier than I normally use, but this stuff is hanging way down on the frame from normal, so I wanted it to be stout.

Pics of the two options for exhaust... (the turndown would be trimmed up to give better ground clearance. Also, the supertrapps would have a hoop around the end, and some sort of skid plate)
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Old 01-30-2005, 11:09 PM   #190
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Keep the Supertrapps!!! It looks awesome and gives the truck a great sound as well...
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Old 01-31-2005, 01:29 AM   #191
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Them mufflers look like they go on a 4 wheeler or ricer car
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Old 01-31-2005, 07:27 AM   #192
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Is there a way to route the pipe coming through the bracket to point the muffler up and over the tubing, you know to tuck it up out of the way?
Even with a protector hoop and skidplate, it would still be in a vulnerable spot, and probably get bashed quite a few times.
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:40 AM   #193
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Brook, what do you use to cut your steel? Torch? Sawzall? Plasma?
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:42 AM   #194
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What are you doing to isolate the ends of the exhaust from the engine, since the motor will twist around on the motor mounts? Also - will the ends get very hot? The end link is kinda' close, is all. Looks very nice I gotta' say.
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:15 AM   #195
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You should route the exhaust up along the back of the cab like a set of stacks for deep water crossings. I wonder what a set of stacks would look like topped off with a set of Super Traps?
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Old 01-31-2005, 10:58 AM   #196
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Brook...In my opinion Super Traps suck...Tried running a set of 3" on my buddys Rat powered Elcamino that ran in the low 11's on the strip...Even tried stacking washers between the baffels...All that did was make them a lot louder...Replaced them with a set of 3" Flowmaster 40" and picked up 3 tenths... One of the biggest single improvements we made on the car...

Also used to use them on our air boats on the slope...Changed them all out for ss Borla's (better in the harsh enviroment) and ended up seeing a much better performance from the engines...

Just thoght I would throw my .02 cents in...Also I like the idea if stacks with a Fowmaster at the bottom...Not sure how loud it would end up in the cab though...
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:43 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTCUL8
Is there a way to route the pipe coming through the bracket to point the muffler up and over the tubing, you know to tuck it up out of the way?
Even with a protector hoop and skidplate, it would still be in a vulnerable spot, and probably get bashed quite a few times.
The mufflers arent going to get bashed I dont think, and if they do, no big deal. Everything else on the truck is already bashed, so they will just match.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate
Brook, what do you use to cut your steel? Torch? Sawzall? Plasma?
I use a miller spectrum 500 plasma some times, a regular oxy/act torch some, a Dewalt multicutter chop saw some, a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel some, and a jig saw once and a while, but almost never a sawsall. The next cutting tool I purchase will be a horizontal bandsaw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepmud
What are you doing to isolate the ends of the exhaust from the engine, since the motor will twist around on the motor mounts? Also - will the ends get very hot? The end link is kinda' close, is all. Looks very nice I gotta' say.
The motor is mounted on the same poly bushings that are on my link ends, and they are very very close to the headers. They havent melted yet, so the ones out by the mufflers should be ok. The engine doesnt move enough to need any kind of flexable member in the exhaust system, but thermal expansion over the length of the pipe might. Fortunately there are enough bends in the exhaust they can take up the difference. Or at least that is my plan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak Dodge
You should route the exhaust up along the back of the cab like a set of stacks for deep water crossings. I wonder what a set of stacks would look like topped off with a set of Super Traps?
Stacks are lame unless your driving a tractor. :devil4:

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyMetal
Brook...In my opinion Super Traps suck...Tried running a set of 3" on my buddys Rat powered Elcamino that ran in the low 11's on the strip...Even tried stacking washers between the baffels...All that did was make them a lot louder...Replaced them with a set of 3" Flowmaster 40" and picked up 3 tenths... One of the biggest single improvements we made on the car...

Also used to use them on our air boats on the slope...Changed them all out for ss Borla's (better in the harsh enviroment) and ended up seeing a much better performance from the engines...

Just thoght I would throw my .02 cents in...Also I like the idea if stacks with a Fowmaster at the bottom...Not sure how loud it would end up in the cab though...
I dont have room for a flowmaster, but I could use a borla bullet. It doesnt matter though, I didnt purchase the supertrapps for performance, I got them because they are quiet, and they fit where I had room. .3 seconds doesnt mean a whole lot to a moose buggy

I'll likely install some race bullets and run turndowns most of the time, then remove the turndowns and install the supertrapps for moose season, so I dont **** off the hunters.
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Old 01-31-2005, 02:27 PM   #198
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Quote:
Stacks are lame unless your driving a tractor. :devil4:
What are you talking about? You do drive a tractor, a rock, trail and swamp tractor!
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Old 01-31-2005, 04:54 PM   #199
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You know.... Your right. I think I might actually consider this. It might just cure several space problems I have concerning the exhaust.
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Old 01-31-2005, 05:18 PM   #200
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yeah! post # 200 :devil4:
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