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Old 01-31-2005, 05:44 PM   #201
bgreen776
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Well, I just looked at putting a single 4" Stack on there, but I dont think its gonna fit too well. I wont discount it completely yet, but I have to decide on something pretty soon, so I can build around it for the rest of the suspension stuff. Dual 3" stacks might work, but that would definately be lame.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:18 PM   #202
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Stacks...lame...I'm gonna cry Brook. Buddy had 3" pipe into two Flowmasters then 3" more pipe into 5" chrome diesel stacks on the flatbed and before he screwed the motor up..oh man it looked and sounded SEXY!! Lame..gah goofy Alaskian ;D

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Old 01-31-2005, 06:48 PM   #203
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Default Exhaust

Stacks sound very cool and are something different. But you know what would be really cool running reverse headers straight up from the engine through or around your hood...joke joke

I like the idea of switching to the supertrapps during the hunting season to keep the sound down and just running a some what normal exhaust for play time.

Well either way you do it it is going to sound and look sweet on that rig.
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Old 01-31-2005, 06:55 PM   #204
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If you do run stacks make sure you put the flappers on the top. j/k I think the stacks would look cool.
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:48 PM   #205
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I've pretty much decided to go back to flowmasters at this point. I found one laying under the bench that I didnt realize I had, so I'll just buy one more, and run the exhaust through the frame but up higher than pictured above.

such is the plan. wait 10 minutes, it might change
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:50 PM   #206
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Flaps are a good thing to help keep your buddys from finding out how many cans of your fave bev will in a stack
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Old 01-31-2005, 08:54 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudhound
Flaps are a good thing to help keep your buddys from finding out how many cans of your fave bev will in a stack
Double Barreled Spud Gun? LOL...Naw I like the stacking cooler idea better, hafta roll it off of a Cadillac to dump the beers out though
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:24 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgreen
such is the plan. wait 10 minutes, it might change
Tell me about it, It's a curse
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:36 PM   #209
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Default How to mock up suspension links, and build brackets

The first thing I do when mocking up suspension parts is to put the axle on jack stands and square it up to the chassis. Careful measurements to known symmetrical points on the chassis will get your axle centered and square. In this case, I had very little go by since everything from the back of the cab rearward was custom built. Rather than risk accumulative error by measuring off of custom fabricated parts, I measured off the only two remaining stock brackets on the truck. The two front cab mounts. Now, you have to realize that those are not going to be perfectly located since they they are points that have nothing to do with the alignment of the drive train, but they are a place to start. When the suspension is complete, the adjust ability you have built into your control arms will allow you to get an accurate alignment. IMO the best way to do that is to have someone drive the vehicle down the road in front of you, while you follow in another vehicle. You will be able to see if the truck is crabbing, and can make adjustments as necessary. For a buggy such as mine, this is a step that will likely never be an issue.

Step two is to set the control arm under the chassis in a position that you think is close to your desired geometry. I use jack stands and/or floor jacks, or this little tool I made that I call my "Third Hand",to make adjustments to the first control arm, then I tack it in place with pieces of scrap metal or whatever I have laying around.



More measurements to verify that the control arm is where I want it, and a few adjustments with a BFH, and your ready to start with the CAD work. (Cardboard Aided Drafting)

The best cardboard is kinda hard to find, (the backs of old notebooks) but you can make due with poster board, or even pizza boxes. Since the control arm is now exactly where you want it, you can sit down on the floor with a couple pens, markers, a compass, ruler, and some scissors, and start shaping your card board into the shape you want your brackets to be. Its a tedious process, but the end result will be templates that you will use to trace onto what ever steel your going to make your brackets out of.

poster board is white, good cardboard is brown....


I like to make the axle end brackets first since they are generally more simple than the frame end brackets. Once one is cut out, and hand fitted, bolt it to the control arm, and tack it to the axle. Now you can remove one of the jack stands, and repeat the process for the frame end brackets.



Once you have one side completely done, and all the brackets tacked into place, you start on the other side. This time, your paying close attention to how the first side is oriented, and matching that to the second. Your not going to get it perfect, so dont pull your hair out on that last 1/16" or half a degree. Nothing about a car or truck has to be that accurate. Especially when you are working off a rig that has already been abused off-road.

Once both sides are completely mocked up, take a second look at all your measurements, and make sure there isn't something obviously wrong, or something you forgot to consider. Now is the time to fix it, not after everything is burned in. You dont have to worry about all the little details like gussets at this point. That can all be taken care of once everything else is finished.
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Last edited by bgreen776; 02-03-2005 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:38 PM   #210
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First completed bracket on the axle...
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:40 PM   #211
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Second bracket tacked on...
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:41 PM   #212
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Next step is the frame end brackets Stay tuned.
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Old 02-02-2005, 12:16 AM   #213
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Brook...Talking about crabing...Had a friend that swaped one spring around on a short bed chevy so that the rear axle was ****ed about 3"...Looked funny as hell going down the road but worked great on the trail for getting out of ruts...
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:21 PM   #214
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Rear steer via sheared off center pins
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:27 AM   #215
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Looking good Brook. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-05-2005, 01:38 AM   #216
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brook you said you are using sch 40 1.5 inch pipe. what is the outside diameter and what are you using for a bender?? i have access to all kinds of pipe.
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Old 02-05-2005, 10:59 AM   #217
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1.5" pipe is 1.900" O.D.

I use a Pro-Tools 105 HD with Pipe specific dies. You cant use just any pipe though. If its beat up from being moved around alot, or its rusty, it will ruin the follower die. IF thats the case, you would be better off to use an elcheapo HF bender.
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Old 02-06-2005, 09:55 PM   #218
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so is it a manual bender and if so how hard do you have to work to bend the pipe. back in montana we used 2 inch .120 wall tubing and with a manual bender with a 5 foot cheater it was some work to bend
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Old 02-06-2005, 10:28 PM   #219
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Ya, its a manual bender for now. And yes, its a bit of work to bend anything around 2" .120 wall. Not that big of a deal though, you just got to make sure your floor is clean.
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Old 02-06-2005, 10:31 PM   #220
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Finally got around to working on the rear cab mounts. Sorry for the crappy pic, I'll have more when its finished.
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Old 02-06-2005, 10:36 PM   #221
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Here is the final location of the exhaust. All thats left is to ditch the old flex tubing, and connect the new stuff to the old stuff.
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:05 PM   #222
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No worries about the heat transfer to the frame? Looks nice.
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:11 PM   #223
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Brook...I love your work... Nice to see high quality fabrication being done...Like I've said before it's my kind of Art...

Only thing is, I think you should have made it dump out on the passenger side instead for two reasons...

#1) There would be a lot less noise on your side of the truck...

#2) In the winter when you are backing up or needing to see out the back thru your drivers side window when its cold out the exh. cloud will make it hard to see thru...(Learned this from one of my old chevys that dumped out the exh. before my rear tires...Really sucked in the winter...Hated it... )
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Old 02-07-2005, 08:13 PM   #224
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Trust me, I would have if I could have. I just dont have room to make the proper bends that would be necessary to exhaust out the pass side. the t-case is in the way. (clocking it flat used up allot of room)

I looked at this for HOURS trying to figure a better way to do it, but after considering what it would take to exit out the pass side, I decided to go with this. I can always change it to do something else later. This is the 4th exhaust rendition, its changed every time I've done work to the truck. lol.

There shouldnt be much heat transfer, and even if there was, there is nothing that could melt at those temps within close proximity.
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Old 02-07-2005, 08:24 PM   #225
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Because of how rigid the boxed and tubed out chassis is, and how stiff my motor and tranny mounts are, I dont think I need any flexable member between the hard mounted exhaust, but I will put something in there if someone has any easy AND inexpensive solutions.

I plan on either doing nothing at all, and just flanging it up with standard collector flanges and gaskets, (already have the flanges tig'd to the frame pass-through tubes. (that was fun, had to weld with a mirror because I couldnt get my head wraped around the output of the t-case )) OR... Using a short section of flexable exhaust pipe with flanges welded to each end.

The exhaust temps that far back arent going to be all that high, so I was wondering about using some sort of silicone couplings.
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