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Old 12-13-2012, 09:08 PM   #51
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Default Re: DP rammit

Air chisel will buzz those things right off. Did it several times a week when I worked at Sears.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:04 AM   #52
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Default Re: DP rammit

Quote:
Originally Posted by nate View Post
Air chisel will buzz those things right off. Did it several times a week when I worked at Sears.
will have to try that

I ended up taking a very small file set to the spindle. There were some rough spots/burs in there but eventually got past them and it wen on smoothly the rest of the way.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:55 PM   #53
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Default Re: DP rammit

fired it up today, aired up the tires, took it to the gas station to put fuel in it.
I got a lot of "why do you need a big dumb truck looks"
then I drove home.
ARB works. just not so well in the cold.
4wd works. Ready to wheel. crap, I have to work tomorrow. #$@%#$@ arcticoffroad is doing a little winter run for a member's birthday. ill miss it

I changed my mind on my ford dana 60. .. no detroit for the front. it is way too hard to steer. I am going to save for an electric locker. .. or what about posi in the front?
This truck is FUN to drive as a monkey dancing in banana pants.
Steering is great, a little sway due to no sway bar.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:32 AM   #54
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Default Re: DP rammit

Did some more wheeling about a month ago out on a logging trail out by the Nenana Highway.
The ARB works pretty good. But it will be going away when I swap the ford 60 up front. I love having a locker up front, but steering sucks! I am getting some binding issues that are probably due to a weak steering pump. I have all of the parts ready to do the 5.13 gears. I have decided to go with a grizzly locker up front and detroit locker center section in the rear. scored a 14 bolt and detroit locker center section for it for a good price yesterday. Just have to run them to my buddy in delta and spend a day doing gear setups.

As the winter keeps pushing through, my brain has wandered to future upgrades that dont cost too much. just labor intensive
future ideas are to:
-bob/box in the bed, and frame to make it make a super short bed with one-piece rear driveline. I would like to shorten up the dodge a bit as it is a pain to turn around on the trail sometimes. a shorter wheel base will also help me clear my long arms in the front too. (I bent one of them last summer going over a parking divider buried with a steep grade of dirt)

-also, possibly look into smaller diameter but taller coils in the front that will net me more travel in the front. longer coils mean new brackets on the frame. possibly hoops.


ill worry about the new ideas after I get the axles in place and my buggy operational first!
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:34 PM   #55
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Default Re: DP rammit

update:
Before today, I received my power steering pump. which was installed before the last wheeling trip to Standard Creek. The trail was pretty gnarly with sugar snow and snow drifts. freaking DEEP in some places (3-4 ft) and in other places it is about 5 inches.
The new steering pump did its job well. I am pleased. but I do see the need for hydro assist still. The hydraulic ram, fittings and hose are in a box in front of me as I type this. I will install it when I get the ford 60 set up under that dodge. I have been pretty happy with the outer stub shafts that came with my spintec hub kit and will probably be ordering 4340 steel outer stubs for the ford 60 when I get closer to finishing up the axle build. the U joints will just be a standard spicer joint.

currently still working on building the ford 60 axle with my buddy who has everything down in Delta, time is just the issue. I got the detroit ready for the new 14bolt. The dodge definitely could use the 5.13 gears as I feel that I am underpowered
I found that my ARB is leaking again for some reason at the diff. I have had it with that ARB ... Cant wait to get the ford 60 with the grizzly locker, new 14 bolt with detroit and 5,13 gears installed on this truck for dependable traction.

the dodge also needs an alignment. Zukman said my truck is tracking funny on the road. I believe it. Last summer I caught the lower control arm on a concrete divider with dirt plowed up to it (making a nice little hill) and rubbed pretty good on it. I believe that messed up my alignment up a little. not such a big deal since my control arms are adjustable. I will align it with a tape measure when I get the ford 6o under it. Seems like everything is revolving around that dam ford 60!
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:33 AM   #56
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Default Re: DP rammit

just a little work to improve approach angle.




going to work on a license plate mount that will make me legal tomorrow . just need to make a plate, drill some holes, plug in lights!
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:54 PM   #57
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Default Re: DP rammit


no lights yet. just happened to have zukman show me some sweet license plate lights he was installing on his yota.
The original plan was to use what was stock but the stock license plate bulb housing lights were too big, there is not much room for them on the top of the new license backing plate. I would have been able to use them but I would have had to move the backing plate up higher, but that would have interfered with my tailgate.
second time using my welder this year, getting the hang of it again.

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I did not cut enough plate wide enough for the stock license plate lights. I assumed I had enough but apparently not.. I assumed I had enough but apparently not. I could have made it work but I would have had to mount the lights onto the plate.
The lights are hard wired into the light harnesses which do not fit through the plate holes. The wires were soldered, heat shrunk and taped. but in order to remove the light or replace it I have to cut the wire. probably should have used some spade connectors.
however it all it worked out:

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Old 07-06-2013, 08:42 PM   #58
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Default Re: DP rammit



super big thanks to my buddy Ole for helping me press out the U joints
put my super yukons joints and 4340 outer stub shafts.

I broke a grease zerk. .. oops. I guess I over torqued it? didnt think I put that much pressure on it. hand threaded it down gave it a squeeze and it broke. to make sure I didnt over tighten it I stuck one of my very small 3 sided files (from the set in the picture) and i could twist it out with my finger. weird! must have been a defect zerk.

anyway will be re assembling my dana 60 ford front very soon to prep it for welding on my coil bucket retainers and 4 links. I am staying with the parallel 4 link setup with the track bar.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:42 PM   #59
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Default Re: DP rammit

apparently I am having trouble with sending pics via phone to get feedback, so I will jump on here to get it. .. and risk critical analysis.. and flaming.
At first I thought I had it.. silly me.
The bottom of the coil buckets were reinforced with 1/4" plate and then welded to a piece of square tube running down to the axle tube. seems like I am building my own coil bracket/bucket mounts after all.

I cut part of the casting away from the tube to make room for the brackets. tubes will be welded to the cast before it is all welded up.

I realized that the johny joint was not going to fit with the coil bucket bracket shown below.


So after moving the coil bucket forward there was room. Not so sure on the new location.. I do need to gusset it if I keep it in that location.


The link brackets are rotated at a different angle in comparison to the stock axle and the bottom link looks like it will be tucked directly under the axle. is this a problem? the distance between the upper and lower links location is a little longer than (0.5") the current setup on the dodge axle. not such a big deal.



Everything is tacked in place. And I am a bit unsure of this setup .. need feedback before I burn it in.

**Edit **

link brackets are burned in. should be welding on cast sometime soon-ish. Had to move the driver side coil bucket again. - the square tube was determined to be too short. I cut a new piece and tacked it into place. the pinon angle was at about 8* with the axle pad at 0*. there was way too much positive caster with this setting.

I rotated the pinion down to 4* which should put the caster at about 4* . my coils should sit fairly level with this setup. and its starting to get dark again....



..
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:14 PM   #60
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Default Re: DP rammit

Got pretty much everything set for the passenger side. Need to hook up with a buddy with some nickle 99 rod and weld the coil buckets to the knuckles and weld the tubes to the centersection. I got the caster set to about 4* and the coil buckets near leveled. the picture was taken at an angle so it looks like I have about 5-6*, but I couldnt get the bubble on the torpedo level in the pic.




The lower links are lower than I like. I will have to see later on if I need to cut and weld them differently or brace them.


Thinking about cutting this piece down to a 2 inch ring to hold the coils in place in case they decide to jump the axle for some reason. They fit nicely inside my current coils.



and here is the centersection / driver side. I recently cleaned it up and wrapped it in syran wrap to keep from rusting until it is ready to be welded the nickle99 rod.


Once this section is welded I may brace the links or box them in. They are spaced at 2.75" which will allow me to run Johny joints or polys. I plan on using some thick washers to make it a snug/ tight fit.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:03 AM   #61
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Default Re: DP rammit

with the lower links mount brackets out of range (too many threads from the control Rubicon express arms) and bent lower control arms (due to wheeling) I beefed up the lower arms.

cut the ends off and slid them into 2.5" inner diameter 1/2" walled tubing.. expensive yes. These better not bend!


had to do some fabricating on the Don Thuren track bar. I needed to turn it at one point and shorten it about 2 inches and then cut off and clock the bushing mount differently. The DT track bar is 3/8" thick walled tubing. I beveled the DT bar, tacked it in place, sleeved it with 1/4" walled 1.5" tubing. Good thing I horde my scrap metal!







replaced the Thuren Half bushings with the stock one piece.


What the Thuren bushings look like after my abuse, alaska cold climate wheeling/driving.


round 2 with the track bar. clocking the bushing housing:
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:12 AM   #62
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Default Re: DP rammit

built a lower track bar mount.






not looking too bad
sitting under her own weight today!



new-ish drivline angle. not aligned yet though.



now Im just waiting on parts deliverys!
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:55 AM   #63
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Default Re: DP rammit

This is where my spyntec free spin kit ended up:


New track bar configuration. Should clear better than what I had before:


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Old 09-13-2013, 12:26 AM   #64
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Default Re: DP rammit



This is the driver side knuckle from SOLID axle industries with their high steer arm on top. (my order finally came in) I just started drilling the holes in the passenger side high steer arm tonight. I am building it out of 1 inch thick steel, which is the same as the SOLID high steer arm. It is not quite ready yet but very close after an evening of standing in front of the drill press I just got off craigslist. (believe it or not it was a great stress reliever from work today). the passenger side steering arm is a little wider than the one in the picture above and sticks out more towards the knuckle's tie rod end.



But for now, I am starting to get a better idea on how the tie rod/drag link position /relationship is going to be setup.

I was thinking about using the passenger cast knuckle arm for the draglink and set the tie rod on top of the high steer arms. this might cause some binding with the tie rod and drag link as the drag link may contact /cross over the tie rod during articulation and turning. But then again it might even not contact.

or

I could put the tie rods on the cast knuckle arms and drag link on top of the high steer. but there would be no point in having the driver side high steer. I am going with hydro assist, so I may be able to use the driver side high steer for that. maybe full hydro one day?
I think this setup would make most sense in regards to correct geometry.

or

I could run both the tie rod and drag link on the high steer arm. Only that by doing this I would be concerned the tension /steering forces from the gear box and impacts from wheeling would be in one place on the knuckle. The knuckle looks pretty stout but it just seems llike there would be a lot of leverage up on top of the knuckle. If i did it this way, the drag link would have to be mounted on top and the tie rods mounted from underneath the high steer arms, this should resolve any binding issues.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #65
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Default Re: DP rammit

Ohh I like the idea of building high steer arms. Are you going to countersink the holes so you can run conical washers and studs? It will help reduce the shear load on the studs and top of the knuckles.

Also, for the tie rod position... Can you build it so you could run double shear heims that would be in line with the middle of the high steer arm if viewed from the front? Then you could put the tie rod ends for the drag link on top of the high steer arm and if I'm thinking about this right, you shouldnt ever have the tie rod contact the drag link unless your axle was sitting on top of your engine (I'm saying it shouldnt happen). Just a thought. Personally, I'd think running the tie rod in the middle of the knuckle (viewing from the front. Up and down wise) would be the strongest option, it just depends on how badly you need it out of the way.
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:35 AM   #66
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Default Re: DP rammit

Quote:
Originally Posted by KOneemen View Post
Ohh I like the idea of building high steer arms. Are you going to countersink the holes so you can run conical washers and studs? It will help reduce the shear load on the studs and top of the knuckles.

Also, for the tie rod position... Can you build it so you could run double shear heims that would be in line with the middle of the high steer arm if viewed from the front? Then you could put the tie rod ends for the drag link on top of the high steer arm and if I'm thinking about this right, you shouldnt ever have the tie rod contact the drag link unless your axle was sitting on top of your engine (I'm saying it shouldnt happen). Just a thought. Personally, I'd think running the tie rod in the middle of the knuckle (viewing from the front. Up and down wise) would be the strongest option, it just depends on how badly you need it out of the way.
the SOLID high steer arm has the width to line up with the knuckle arm to make the double sheer. not sure there is enough material there to run a 3/4 hole. I will have to do some measuring here today to confirm that.

and to answer your other question, yep! the conical washers are here I have to
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Old 09-14-2013, 10:24 AM   #67
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Default Re: DP rammit

I was thinking something more like the first picture. I imagine you want to do something like the second. Just make sure you have a good spacer in there so the bolt can put the squeeze on something. Either should work fine... Keep em comin!
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:16 AM   #68
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Default Re: DP rammit

The cones are a 40 degree taper. if anyone wants to know or has a countersink I can borrow...
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Old 09-14-2013, 11:01 PM   #69
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Default Re: DP rammit

So this is where the hole landed on the knuckle's arm I mirrored the SOLID high steer arm I bought, but it doesnt line up with the SOLID knuckle though





I suppose I wont be running it straight through that hole. however If I move the hole 1/2 inch I will be just about dead center on the knuckle. My thought is to drill the hole dead center in the knuckle and drill a new hole up on the steering arm. yes it will be VERY close to the hole that is there already. I think I may just drill it out and weld a bolt in it, grind it smooth with a flap disc it to hide the evidence. Ill move the TRE holes back about .75 - 1" and mount them upside down.


I am really happy with how the steering arm came out. The solid knuckles have a groove in them to help with keeping the steering arms on the knuckles. That was the most challenging part (well ..time consuming) I notched a small piece I had to cut out of 3/16" steel after drilling the holes to 17/32", slid it under the steering arm and slid the 17/32" drill bit through the steering arm I made to find the center and started welding. I notched the small piece of steel so I could weld under it and grind / file it to fit in the knuckle cavity up on top where the arm is as of now.

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Old 09-15-2013, 08:17 AM   #70
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Default Re: DP rammit

I like the fab work. Keep it up. I don't think I'd make a plug using a bolt if the new hole is going to overlap the old hole. The bolt may be too hard and when you redrill the new hole the bit might walk away from the harder material.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:32 AM   #71
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Default Re: DP rammit

Arm looks good, sucks about the tie rod hole. Maybe a piece of round bar can be used to fill the old hole and then you can weld washers on the top and the bottom of the new hole to keep everything intact after burning the rod in?
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:39 AM   #72
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Default Re: DP rammit

I am sure a small section of rounf bar would work, but I can find a bolt quicker
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:06 PM   #73
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Default Re: DP rammit

drilled some new holes in the high steer arms and the knuckles. I made up my mind. I am going with a double sheer. the tie rod will have to sit below the drag link on the passenger knuckle. the plan is to have them both sandwiched in between the high steer arms and the knuckle. if this does not work out I will go with plan B and drill a little ways back on the high steer arms and use 1 ton TREs. For now I plan on using the Heims. I still need to get the passenger high steer arm's mounting bolt holes counter sunk. other than that the arms just need paint.

As for the high steer arm holes, I did exactly what I said a few posts ago. I cut down an old 3/4" bolt and welded them into the arms. Flap wheeled it and that was it!



turns out the high steer mounting surface is parallel to the knuckle mount surface. This made drilling straight through a piece of cake.


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Old 09-18-2013, 08:12 PM   #74
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Default Re: DP rammit



figured it out. step drill bit, and conical stone to smooth the ridges out. worked smoother than I have been stressing this out to be.
might be able to break away from work tomorrow to get some tubing from the pipe yard to put in between the knuckle and high steer arms.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:06 PM   #75
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Default Re: DP rammit

I believe I spent most of the week running around trying to find the parts I ended up with. Here is what took me a week but should have been a few days if even if I had known what parts to get!

first I started out pressing in the U joints into the axle shafts. They went in, but man... they put up a fight.


quick fix:


an old temporary U bolt plate I cut out with a torch. It worked great. I will have to get around to building a new one when I feel like this fix is no longer useful or becomes a hindrance.

cleaned up spindles..and yes, 14 bolt spindle nuts have the same thread as the dana 60 spindles. .




I am supposed to trade the ford dana60 bearing hubs that came off this axle for some chevy bearing hubs from Gus on a deal we worked out, but he has not been able to get around to bringing me them yet. So I pulled the dana 60 hubs from the CUCV. They took quite a bit of cleaning!


Some shocks for the front. My springs sit around 18 inches and extend to about 24 inches. Not sure what these exactly go on but they worked! CarQuest is doing me right. They got some good people there.
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