Alaska 4x4 Network

Go Back   Alaska 4x4 Network > Alaska 4x4 Network Forums > 4x4 Vehicle (car, truck, etc) > Build-up Threads

Build-up Threads Long term build up threads only please. This forum will be very heavily moderated. If you have a question about content, pm Logjam before posting it.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-29-2013, 09:38 PM   #76
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Solid knuckles

Brake Calipers,pads,brackets:
ford F350 superduty brake calipers, brackets and pads.
I may have been able to get away with the 1997 f350 (non super duty) brake caliper and brackets, but I already put a grinder to the calipers to make the square brake line block fit.

Rotors:
1992-1997 suburban 2500 front brake rotors were the shortest Napa had to offer. Depending on the wheel studs used, the rotors may need to be drilled out. I originally was going to use chevy wheel studs and drilled my rotors out to 11/16". the super duty pads run just about 3/16" over the rotors.

Wheel spacers:
2-3" spacers needed. This axle is a bit narrow and wont clear control arms on my dodge. Even with 2" spacers (which I happen to have), the 42" tires rub a little on the lower control arms at full lock.
Wheel spacers may not be needed if I went with a dually dana 60 hub. I think I know a guy with em.. I may change my mind and buy up the brake caliper brackets from SOLID found here (if this setup does not work out):
D60 Front Caliper Bracket for 8 Lug Rotors - Brake Components - Spyntec Industries LLC.

Wheel Studs:
stock Chevy wheel studs wont work with the wheel spacer. I had to put on rear dually 14 bolt studs. . I bit overkill (LONG) but it worked.After realizing the Chevy wheel studs were too short, I soon realized the 14bolt dually studs were narrower. I was livid.
I had to tack weld a few to the back side of the rotor as they wanted to spin on me. I used a very liberal amount of red thread locktight to keep em locked in. The tires will be bolted to the spacer's studs.
Wheel studs may need to be ground down 1/16" to 1/8" depending on the spacer used. The wheel studs stuck up above the spacer's wheel mount surface and had to be ground down.


SOLID KNUCKLES:
There are a few spots I had to trim on the SOLID knuckle instal.
the brake caliper bracket guides and a small portion of the spindle.

spindle:


Guides:
Trim the guides back about 1/8" to 3/8".
There is plenty of material there to spare. I grinded as evenly as possible. Seemed to work out nicely.








The more I think about it, I think going with chevy rotors, and 80's 3/4 ton chevy brake calipers and SOLID's brake caliper bracket would have gone smoother.
If I have any issues later on a test drive I will be sure to change out to the parts just listed.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 09-29-2013 at 10:18 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2013, 07:39 PM   #77
KOneemen
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 95
KOneemen has disabled reputation
Default Re: DP rammit

What's the width/offset/backspace on your wheels? I haven't looked at it, but unless that CUCV axle is narrower than a Dodge (Doesn't make sense) I can't think of why you're getting rubbing issues now. Needing 3" spacers (on each side?) sounds ridiculous just to clear your control arms.

Your rig must be wider'n all get out with 42's and 6" of spacers, haha!
KOneemen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2013, 09:17 PM   #78
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Quote:
Originally Posted by KOneemen View Post
What's the width/offset/backspace on your wheels? I haven't looked at it, but unless that CUCV axle is narrower than a Dodge (Doesn't make sense) I can't think of why you're getting rubbing issues now. Needing 3" spacers (on each side?) sounds ridiculous just to clear your control arms.

Your rig must be wider'n all get out with 42's and 6" of spacers, haha!
At that point of getting too wide, I might as well get rockwells and join the kodiak dodge club. It will take me 10 years and a lot of beer to get there too.
funny you mention that. I always forget to measure the backspacing when the wheels are off.
I am not running dually hubs, even if I was the H1 wheels would still be too wide.



My longer er-er-er control arms make less of an angle I suppose which brings the center of the tire closer to the control arm at full lock. I was having rubbing issues on original dodge dana 60. I added the 2 inch wheel spacers and that seemed to fix the rubbing issue. The ford axle seems to be a little narrower as it rubs the control arms with the spacers. Come to think of it. maybe the stops will keep it from hitting when I connect the tierod .. which came to a screeching hault tonight.

I almost got the tierod cut and welded.. but I ran out of welding wire.
Ended up cutting the arm, stuffing a 1 inch grade 8 bolt I had laying around in the Don Thuren tie rod tube. It pains me to cut up this dodge steering setup after paying so much for it. but it is at no extra expense to me at this point. After welding the grade8 bolt and the gap, I sleeved the outside of the tube. this section of the tie rod is basically 2" of steel.
Tie rod tube =.25" wall x 2 = .5" thick
1 inch bolt =1" thick
tubing sleeve over tie rod end tube = .25" wall x 2 = .5" thick

somewhat over kill. I think this is where my ram assist mount may be welded as well.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 09-30-2013 at 09:20 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2013, 09:01 PM   #79
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Turns out there is not enough room in between the knuckle and highsteer mount
The bungs BARELY clear each other and I am certain there will be binding of the two if I put em there. So my thought is to just mount the tierod on top of the high steer and weld up a 3rd sheer setup on top of the knuckle.

passenger side - unsure of what I will run with, but taking suggestions.


driver side mock up. may change if I decide to run the tie rod elsewhere on the passenger side.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 10-03-2013 at 09:06 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #80
KOneemen
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 95
KOneemen has disabled reputation
Default Re: DP rammit

Just so I'm understanding... The high steer arm is clipping the top of your tie rod? You could locate the tie rod ends to the side of your high steer arm and keep the bolt connecting your knuckle tie rod hole and high steer arm. Then you could simply mount your drag link to the top of the high steer arm and you should be golden. Right?
KOneemen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2013, 07:33 PM   #81
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Quote:
Originally Posted by KOneemen View Post
Just so I'm understanding... The high steer arm is clipping the top of your tie rod? You could locate the tie rod ends to the side of your high steer arm and keep the bolt connecting your knuckle tie rod hole and high steer arm. Then you could simply mount your drag link to the top of the high steer arm and you should be golden. Right?
nope. the high steer arm is not a problem. The problem is there is not enough room in between the high steer and knuckle mount as the drag link and tie rod are way too close and will rub on each other, causing binding.

I took a pic of the angles of the tie rod and traction bar. the angle isnt too bad. they are not parallel so there will be a little bump steer. there will be less bump steer once I find a stock pitman arm. I have a drop pitman arm that is for a general 6 inch aftermarket lift, which I do not need.




I made it more visible with paint.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2013, 08:46 PM   #82
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

tried to bleed the brakes .. bought two different banjo's bolts by mistake. one holds fluid, the other does not. I wanted to drive it to the self-car wash today to dust off all the mud inside the engine compartment before it gets too cold to do so :mad3:

the big search now is the pitman arm. I am looking for a pitman arm that is flat or just slightly dropped or just not as far as the one I have. I checked on the stock arms thinking they were flat but they look just like a dropped pitman arm from a lift kit. Anyone know by any chance what other vehicle's pitman arm will fit my gear box?

I had PCS motorsports rebuild the box last winter .. and will be calling them tomorrow to see what they recommend for a pitman arm as well.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2013, 06:42 AM   #83
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

drove it to the car wash to get the dry mud off before Alaska goes into a deep freeze. On the way I stepped on the accelerator and it seems to hesitate. might be the trans slipping or the t case. I was hearing a clunking sound when I put it into 4wd before the front was swapped after my last trip. might have to take it to a trans shop for a full flush and tighten the bands to spec.
The dodge kind of pulls to the left a little, not too bad, tires had flat spots and probably needs a better tape alignment. it had that hot dirt smell when I pulled up, no dirt smell after!

started tearing down the new 14 bolt to prep it for the disc brakes and pinion flange swap. the 14 bolt is still heavy without the shafts and drums on it.. I need to spend more time at the gym and do more deadlifts. lifted the axle and felt a small pop in my back, a good kind of pop too. I slept REAL good last night
I will definitely be a little more careful in the future when lifting stuff.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #84
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

boxed in the passenger side arm for the 3rd sheer.



got the axle under the dodge pretty much stripped of all the brake parts. might need an extra hand to drag it out and slide the new one under when I get the 14 bolt's spring pads cut off. Thinking about putting an overload spring in the pack to maintain the longevity of these springs. Might not get as much up travel, but that beats the hell out of a bent spring. ill have to make a run out to my parents property where I horde the junk I think I might use later, give away or sell for cheap.


Its coming along
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 10-09-2013 at 08:47 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2013, 06:10 PM   #85
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

drilled a hole at the end of the crack.
used a grinder wheel to grind out a "V" for the bead.
preheat to 400'
weld
peen the weld and around the weld
post heat, let slowly cool to 200' (6" around weld)
no cracks!




kinda the same process as above. Only one pass was made to keep heat to a minimum.




no cracks

installed the new-to-me rear end today



I will be getting rid of the square U bolts and getting myself a set of 'U' shaped U bolts and some nifty top plates. havent decided where to get them from yet. ruff stuff has treated me well.
I will be needing new shock mounts on the axle as well. Maybe I might spoil myself with a 3/8" diff cover too
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #86
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Did some pitman arm work today.
I got the 2wd Chevy ORD pitman arm in the mail earlier this week. It fits just like the pitman arm I pulled from the junk yard. Both pitman arms (junk yard and ORD) do not slide up the sector shaft like the one I have been running.

The pitman arm I was using slides up on the Borgeson steering box sector shaft a bit higher (1/8").

The ORD arm fits tighter than the one that was on there. I think I am going to fab up a pitman arm out of the one that was on there and make it a double sheer. I have been looking at some custom pitman arms on the web and it doesnt look too hard to build one without compromising safety. I may take it in to a welding shop to get the final and most important welds TIG welded.

The pitman arm nut shown below. It holds just as many or more threads as a stock nut would so I am not too worried about not having enough threads.



I would prefer if the pitman went up a little further. on the ORD pitman arm, I had to use a hack saw to cut out the guides and file the teeth evenly so I could clock it correctly.



Here is the bottom of the pitman arm. I tried to squeeze it up tighter but this is as far as I got. I would tighten it, pound around the pitman with a hammer and tighten it again. I did this 5-6 times and it just wasnt going any further. I need to get a camera phone with a flash..




I even went as far to try the pitman arm on my 03 cummins. That pitman arm is too big around as it fit way too loose.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 10-19-2013 at 07:30 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #87
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Lower shock mount bolt. kind of goofy



Removed the passenger rear shock mount. Dodge really went out of their way to build this mount. 4 bolts and it all came off. Cut off the top part of the shock mount and used that. Cut a square notch in it and welded it to the tire carrier. Not the best spot but the other shock mount was welded to the tire carrier. I said what the heck and welded it up.


Rear lower shock mounts. I lined them up with the upper shock mounts and they came out a little crooked. I cut the old mounts off the old 14 bolt, which turns out I have reused the shock mounts 2 times as these lower shock mounts were on the old dana 60 rear axle. I will have to make some new brake line retainers as I had to cut off some of the old ones.


Just ordered the top plates and rear 14 bolt diff cover from RuffStuff and got to talk to the man himself. Great guy, willing to help out anyway he can to keep customers. Dan will continue getting my business in the future.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 09:02 PM   #88
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

I still have the motivational bug in me!
Been working on the dodge a little bit each night. I got about 1 hour of daylight before I have to bring out the work light. Last night I removed the lift blocks. One of the lift blocks had a very noticeable crack in it when I removed it and got some light on it.



it leveled out. Ive ordered some DIY4x 7 inch shackles. I might use them. I ordered them after I removed the blocks. I kind of like the stance I have now.


I got the hydro assist halfway hooked up. The hard part is done though. I will be running the hoses later this weekend or tomorrow night.




__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2013, 08:48 PM   #89
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

out with the old and in with the new. Shackle flip ! need to drill out rear hanger rails tomorrow. I am VERY glad I invested in a drill press.
I was just about to install the DIY4x shackle hangers, and then I got a wild hair up my butt. The work I did before a few years ago with the shackle flip just did not sit well with me. It worked well, it was strong but it looked like poo. I searched the internet for a kit and decided I did not want to spend $200 on a flip kit from DIY4x or ORD. I like my money. Plus I have the tools and much improved welding skills.



Thankfully I didnt weld to the frame!





Those rivets were a PITA to punch out. My shoulder hurts now.


weld porn! well. kinda.




I used 3/16 steel plate.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 11-03-2013 at 08:51 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2013, 09:21 PM   #90
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

When I get home from work (about 5 pm) it is dark already. sunrise is at 9 am.

small amount of progress made ( @ night again )



'slightly' adjustable shackle hangers to weld up to the frame hangers tomorrow. And my wiener.


I couldn't find bolts that had just the right shank length. However, I did find some that were slightly a bit too long, but I will need to space it out with some lock washers under the head of the bolt and behind the nut .... another trip to the hardware store. So I had to call it quits tonight and line/square them up tomorrow .. at night

was planning on getting it ready to tow to a trans shop to flush the trans and help me check the t case.. probably will have to happen next week.
this weekend Ill be wrapping up the rear springs/hangers, bolting up the rear diff cover, buying shocks, bleeding brakes.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2013, 07:47 PM   #91
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

So basically to drill through it all I tack welded everything together. Made my marks and went to town on the drill press.


This is how I squared them up. One side came out a little tight but I managed to squeeze it in.


Copied the pattern from the stock brackets:


Test fit. perfect.




Sitting pretty good! The DIY4x shackles will bump the hangers under max compression. I will either trim the hangers, cut out quite a few of the extra holes so it can swing back, or move the hangers back another hole to give it a more vertical angle (Only problem there is that it may stiffen up the ride)




__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2013, 08:55 PM   #92
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Got some new hardware and new rear shocks in today.
Clamped down the brake lines with some thick Zip ties, I think I will be redoing the brake lines in the summer to really snug up the lines to the axle.

the rear axle rides at about 21.5"" an drops about 26.5". It compresses at about 16.5". I had a hard time picking out shocks as the store didnt have exactly what I needed. I think that my down travel may be a little more than the shocks can go. (already planning for limiting straps)
I think when I eventually flat bet this thing I will go with some bilstein reservoir shocks and build some shock towers.
Had the diff cover from ruff stuff on yesterday... weather has been nuts lately. raining, snowing, lightning, 70 mph winds.

Good news is that the rear just needs some bleeding and its ready for the trans shop to get the trans inspected/flushed.
the front drive shaft or t case may need to be rebuilt. Front drive shaft feels solid though. I got a constant pattern -popping clicking noise when in 4wd with the front hubs unlocked when I took it to the car wash.

__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2013, 04:16 PM   #93
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

currently fighting with the hydro assist ram. it seems to want to pull to the right only. I think I got the lines criss-crossed or there is air in them. I can definitely tell the hydro ram is working though. further back (right port) is hooked up to the passenger side of the ram.

so i switched the lines and every time I would turn the wheel the reservoir would spew out the steering fluid. switched it back to the way i had it in the paragraph above, cycled the steering back and forth 4-5 times again (had my girlfriend do this) while I cracked the fittings to bleed the air ..and the ram still only wants to pull to the right!
-frustrated.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2013, 04:57 PM   #94
bigtex
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ft. Richardson
Posts: 708
bigtex is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Dude, my truck does the exact same thing and all my rods/bj's are new. The only thing I can think of that makes it do what it does it the steering wheel isnt lined up right on the column. Try unlocking the steering via the keys and pushing the pitman over by adjusting the drag link? It might be worth a shot, imma try it tomorrow with my truck and see what happens. I can only think that some part in the box isn't lined up right and the ram is still trying to cycle. Like I said, my truck does it too and it's annoying as ****.
__________________
cowboy up
"life's alot tougher when your stupid" - John Wayne
81 toyota w/ whats left of a service box and 38" swampers
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...lack-81-a.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...bler-tech.html
bigtex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2013, 06:31 PM   #95
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

when i set it up like this (I will call this setup #2):
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/te...pump-route.pdf

it would burp everything back out.

one thing I did find out just a little while ago is that it was not allowed to cycle all the way with the #1 setup (just swapped the ports up by the gear box)
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2013, 06:38 PM   #96
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtex View Post
Dude, my truck does the exact same thing and all my rods/bj's are new. The only thing I can think of that makes it do what it does it the steering wheel isnt lined up right on the column. Try unlocking the steering via the keys and pushing the pitman over by adjusting the drag link? It might be worth a shot, imma try it tomorrow with my truck and see what happens. I can only think that some part in the box isn't lined up right and the ram is still trying to cycle. Like I said, my truck does it too and it's annoying as ****.
My truck was up on jack stands. I am going to remove the wheels and cycle it (w/o the vehicle on) since I just noticed the tires are hitting the control arms.


instructions straight from PSC:
1. The vehicle’s battery should always be disconnected before any modications are made.
2. Make sure all of the ttings in the power steering system are tight.
3. Raise all steering tires o of the ground.
4. Fill reservoir with power steering uid (NEVER use automatic transmission uid). Leave the cap
o of the reservoir.
5. Cycle the steering from lock to lock three or four times.
6. Check uid level in reservoir. Rell as needed.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until a consistent level in the reservoir is reached.
8. Reconnect the battery. Replace the cap on the reservoir.
9. Start the vehicle and let it run without any steering input for 30 seconds.
10. Turn o engine.
11. Check and rell reservoir as needed, replacing cap when done.
12. Start engine and cycle steering from lock to lock 10-15 times.
13. Turn o the engine and let it stand for 10 minutes to allow air bubbles to work out of the system.
14. Repeat steps 11-14 until there are no air bubbles visible in the reservoir.
15. With the engine running, observe the uid level in the reservoir. While looking in the reservoir,
turn o the engine. The uid level should not change.
16. If the level does not change, check the system for leaks. If there are no leaks, test drive the
vehicle. If the level does change start over at step 4
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2013, 07:05 AM   #97
bigtex
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ft. Richardson
Posts: 708
bigtex is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

Only thing I do different is have the front end off the ground about a foot or more so the air bubbles will gravitate to the pump and out the resi. My box is a remaned psc unit, Ive used their stuff before and never had any issues. This is a first for me too, Im just happy it drives down the road smoothly.
Btw, I dig the rear shackle mounts, they are simple and adjustable. I may fab a set myself before me and the family head out...

On another note, the fluid I use for my p/s, trans and t-cases is 303 tractor hydraulic. Its the same crap as atf but less than half the cost per gallon. I have considered using 10w in the p/s to see what happens but have got off my *** to do it yet.
__________________
cowboy up
"life's alot tougher when your stupid" - John Wayne
81 toyota w/ whats left of a service box and 38" swampers
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...lack-81-a.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...bler-tech.html

Last edited by bigtex; 11-17-2013 at 07:10 AM.
bigtex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2013, 09:52 AM   #98
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

I refrain from using 100% ATF in the power steering as it tends to foam and bubble. I will use a 60% power steering and 40% ATF mix in the end. The ATF keeps it from freezing up too!
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2013, 08:36 PM   #99
bigtex
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ft. Richardson
Posts: 708
bigtex is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

I messed w/ my steering with no luck, it still pulls to the right. Ill just deal with it.
Seriously tho, try the 303, you may like it.
__________________
cowboy up
"life's alot tougher when your stupid" - John Wayne
81 toyota w/ whats left of a service box and 38" swampers
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...lack-81-a.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/...bler-tech.html
bigtex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2013, 09:34 PM   #100
ak_petey
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 1,856
ak_petey is on a distinguished road
Default Re: DP rammit

when my steering wheel got a little bit of resistance the ram kicked in and would not stop pushing to the right. it went all the way and would not let up. I had to turn the truck off and recenter it without is running. I am thinking it still has air in it.

Is yours just pulling to the right while driving?

----------------
So I started bleeding the steering system today and just when I get done cycling the steering (took the wheels off to get the maximum range this time) I noticed my battery looked like it is wet up by the top terminal. the battery is only a year old! So my dumb *** decided to dip the tip of my finger in it and licked it . My thoughts were "It cant be that bad right?"
I mean I have made that mistake before and it was snowing out.. i could have been battery acid or water. YUP. battery acid confirmed. This battery has no juice left and it was battery acid at the top
having a dumbass day over here.

so I ended up pulling the battery and loading it up in the back of my other dodge and went to put away my battery charger. I thought back to last night it over loaded the battery once and the battery had to be charged every time I went to start it (very annoying) so I plugged in the battery charger and it turns out that the alligator clamp BURNT off the last time I used it (couple minutes before) so between the battery and the charger I dug into my receipts and found the right ones and got a new charger and paid about $90 for a new battery with my exchange (upgraded to a red top).

So I went to the hardware store to piece something together for my "overflow" container. I ended up with a neck down fitting and some PVC adapters. Im going to redneck this mod.



Edit*
the rubber coupling is pretty thick too (1/4" to 3/16" thick)
I think I can get by a year or two with this setup, but I plan to have a reservoir from PSC or a military CUCV in there when it warms back up.

on the coupler it is stamped: 156-215 C.I.P. Plastic
and then below it has a shield with "UPC" and an apple with "GAP" printed on it

decided against the rtv, scraped it out and used rescue tape around the neck of the reservoir to make the coupler a tight fit. Sorry about all the updates. the coupler looks pretty solid! Supposed to hit -30 tomorrow. I might have to take a break until it warms up a little. Winter in Alaska is finally here. I forgot to call PSC today and ask them about the port routing on my dodge's gear box. I will call them up tomorrow, get the right info and tell them what I have been working with about and ask for some tech tips and find out what I need to be doing. (hydro assist noob here)
After the hydro assist is put back together ill bleed the brakes
Even though I got a gel red top battery, I will pull my battery I have had brand new batteries freeze in deep freezing temperatures. I would prefer to not risk losing this one! I just got it.
__________________
If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Dodge,Duck, Dip, Dive, & Dodge

Last edited by ak_petey; 11-18-2013 at 10:24 PM.
ak_petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -9. The time now is 12:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Alaska 4x4 Network