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Old 04-02-2013, 11:10 PM   #51
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Default Re: tragdor

I would swap to a DOT tire. My balls aren't THAT big man! There are some trails where you have no choice to drive a little bit on the road. not too far though.
also
I may have a lead on some 47 inch LTBs....
one of those deals where ya gotta wait to see how serious your buddy is about wheeling (just waiting until SHE gets stuck and I get to explain what a differential locker is and how much $$ it can be.. might be a deterrent).


I checked out some wiring harness prices today and :barf: I am willing to pull a harness out of an older rig and modify it. but first I will have to tear out my dash and see what I have to work with.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:10 AM   #52
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Wiring:
pulled my wire harness from my shortbed chevy and it is still in good shape, it is a Painless harness too. I only pulled the engine and cab sections of the harness. I will get the back half later. I havent figured out the wiring problem yet, but I figure I might as well just go with a harness that is in good shape, as in not rotten with cracks in the wire insulation, or a product of my electrician skills . there is a short somewhere in there. I have a buddy who works at a collision repair shop and said he was willing to help me get everything in there and keep it a clean job.

Ags:
I got the last of the inner tubes in and torqued down the bead lock ring bolts to 15-20 lbs.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:33 PM   #53
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Default Re: tragdor

got some DIY stuff in the mail today. good stuff.
DIY shackles in comparison



New diy4x shackles produced a little bit of a rake. it sits a little high in the rear, need to take an overload leaf and maybe helper leaf spring out to lower it and soften up the rear spring rate.
I may have to relocate the front (fixed) spring hangers and the axle pad on the driverside as the springs may no longer be centered on it. (The diy4x hangers accommodate the narrower rear springs 52 inch springs I swapped up front. my stock ones do not). I have some 7.25" shackle hangers from diy4x4 as well. They are a little longer than the ones I currently have on so they may produce a little lift. I do not want anymore lift on this thing. If I get too much lift I will consider relocating the front location of the front (fixed) spring hanger and possibly drilling holes closer together and the shackles.

I was warned about aluminum shims cracking and I just dont want to mess with that kind of failure this far into the build. When I have the springs off the axle I will have some solid steel shims to install. I currently have aluminum shims.




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Old 06-23-2013, 11:36 PM   #54
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Eliminated the over load spring and the extra helper spring. If the pack starts to sag I will pop one set of helper springs back in. Before removing the extra springs I had enough threads to seat the U bolt nuts half way on, I now have them fully seated. I will probably twist these springs wheeling if I cant get the antiwrap bars on.



and then..
after workin on the blazer today Jon pointed out that the blazer's frame is toast. Tweaked pretty bad by the driver side's rear spring shackle .. it is off by about 2 inches. not too happy to hear this news but better to find out in his yard than 40 miles out in the middle of nowhere.

my plan for now is to start removing the drive train out of the blazer and start over with something else. My thoughts are to start on the 85 short bed.. yeah. its coming back to haunt me again.

one step forward.. 10 steps back.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:39 PM   #55
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I got the 1 tons underneath the short bed today. couldnt get the rear springs to line up. I ended up putting blocks on to of the springs and ratchet strapping them to the frame and also compressed the springs a little to keep it tight.


i spent most of my time blocking and stacking this thing so it wouldnt tip over. This ratchet strap was a life saver!



This door has to go. going back the blue door.



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Old 06-23-2013, 11:46 PM   #56
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I swapped the hydroboost and brake foot pedal over. brakes not connected yet..

And after a long week.... this: notice Jon's bug in the back! he was all sorts of giddy when he got it!


I started out in the middle of last week chasing cracks in the steering box area of the frame with Jon's carbide bit. I think I probably spent a couple days out there at Jon's .. many many hours chasing cracks, V-notching them and eventually welding them up. I think it took me less than an hour to weld/clean of weld **** and paint.

But for today, I spent most of the day playing with the front springs as I swapped in the long 52" springs that were on my blazer. Up front I have a 1/4" 2x6 tube steel up front with DIY4x shackle front spring hangers. I spent an extra 3 hours resetting the spring location as it was not clamped and the springs, axle and new mount kicked out on me and I almost dumped the truck on its side.
the front cross member/hanger mounts: I put 4 tacks in to hold it in place. The rear end of the truck is sitting very low and Jon and I are not convinced that fixed location of the springs are correct at this moment. before completely welding the front hangers into place I am waiting for the rear hangers from DIY4x to show up. After the rear hangers are in I will have to see where the springs set and adjust the fixed location of the front and rear hangers permanently after the motor, transmission and t case back in. The springs are super arched at the moment, but will settle down about 10 inches once the behemoth 454, th400np205 are back in.


below is the inside of the frame, I welded up the spacers. one of them looks goobered up, but that is because I welded the washers too.


outside of frame/painted:
I tacked on some washers because the steering box was a little tight. I still need to instal the steering box. I was careful not to get this area too hot when completing all the welds... Jon's breaker kept blowing out and I used the time to reset the breaker, clean the welds, v notch another area that needed crack chasing.. which gave it ample time too cool... despite the sun beating on my at 85-90 degrees. I believe a buddy originally welded it up 5-6 years ago with the old 6.2 in it. the welds held good, the plating held good, but the frame was cracked up and not repaired. cracks were hidden under the dirt and soot probably. ... With the motor and front clip off I was able to complete all the welds and seal off anything from getting in between the frame and plating. I also put in a few rosette welds.


I also did my rear hangers. the old ones were toast. I could push the old bushing and sleeve out with my finger.
here you can see where the bolt was RIDING on the hanger mount!



old bushings:


New DIY4x shackles installed. (crappy pic) These come with a beefy 9/16 bolt/poly bushings. I had to grind out the factory rivets and widen the main bushing hole a little. Oh, and trim a corner off the of the top/backside of the flange of the diy4x mount.

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Old 06-24-2013, 06:50 PM   #57
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Default Re: tragdor

This is going to be me next r and r. If I don't sell the blazer by then.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:46 PM   #58
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Blazer traitors!
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:50 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Shortbed View Post
Blazer traitors!
Already have some interest in my k5. For the right price, everything is for sale.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:17 PM   #60
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False
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:28 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Shortbed View Post
False
When it comes to stuff in my garage, it's true.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:09 PM   #62
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Default Re: tragdor

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyMan0784 View Post
When it comes to stuff in my garage, it's true.
What's next for you?
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:22 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Shortbed View Post
Blazer traitors!
Thinking about chopping the frame so the wheel base is the same as a blazer
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:15 PM   #64
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Default Re: tragdor

Thats fine. Spencer and I will have to hold the fort down I guess. Cough traitors cough
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:34 PM   #65
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Quote:
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Thats fine. Spencer and I will have to hold the fort down I guess. Cough traitors cough
You mean just you? Spencer is selling his...
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Old 06-26-2013, 07:46 PM   #66
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jesus! you all suck balls
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84Shortbed View Post
jesus! you all suck balls
This is false. Except for Spencer. He definitely sucks balls. It so I hear... Lol
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:16 AM   #68
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"You know just as well as I do, that it may be money, and it may even be your money.... but there are certain people in our lives that will chop your balls off in your sleep, and drug you, and tie you to the bumper of your favorite truck and drag you if you bring home another project"

-Patrick, I believe you are safe from Spencer.
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #69
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After getting the new shackle hangers I wont be needing these anymore. should fit the shackle ORD flip kit. I may use it for my dodge, but I will have to widen out the ends about 1/8 of an inch. to fit the 3 inch springs on it. $185 for both. . . and you dont have to pay shipping. Available for a limited time until I make use of them!



cross over is in, I would like to get ahold of a longer driver side steering arm as my tie rod is not lined up. I switched the drag link and tie rod hole on the pass. side because they would bind when articulating (they cross paths)


my tie rod is a little bent too must have happened out at 55 mile in 2010.. yikes.. been down that long..


new shackles:
flip n switch from diy4x


pulled springs out
burning out the old bushings tomorrow after work if time allows.


ground off the old axle spring perches, I hate doing that.
I made a mess of it last time I welded em on.. not sure what the heck I was doing. tube is all cleaned up and ready for some welding
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:56 PM   #70
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Default Re: tragdor

Looking good man. Looks like you finally got a decent camera!

Also, welcome to the big boys truck club.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:35 AM   #71
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Caster/Shackle Angle:
the front axle caster is not set yet. I am waiting to burn in the front spring hangers when I get my drivetrain in. Once the weight is on the truck I can set the perches in the right spot and get the rear shackle angle correctly.
I may need to drop the front spring hanger mount.


still contemplating on what I should do for the steering.
Steering:
drag link is likely to bind with the tie rod when articulating. couple options I think may resolve the issue:
1. Instal tie rod on lower (stock) tie rod mounts on the knuckle until I can get a new drag link bent to fit without binding.
2. longer driver side steering arm. This will put the drag link behind the tie rod but I will not have as much leverage on the steering. I will have hydro assist to help though. But then again losing the leverage on the knuckle is counter productive and the angles would be wrong
3. F$%^ it and go full hydro. (Im kidding)
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:30 AM   #72
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NWF arms came in this week. I painted and installed them right away.Those guys are great over there. highly recommended. oh and the parts are beefy as hell. Thanks NWF!







tie rod not installed (paint drying)
3/8" DOM tube with weld in bungs I got from RuffStuff.





current front spring hanger setup. just tacked in. I will be flipping the brackets around and welding them in place when the weight of the motor is in. Thinking about tossing the square tubing out and losing about 2 inches. (probably will happen depending on where the drivline angle and where the springs settle once the weight of the motor and drive train are on the truck).



Current stance:
-might be flipping or manipulating the zero rate to help center up the axle under the wheel well. there will definitely be some fender trimming to fit the 45" Ag's. in the rear. Currently trimming and suspension set up finalization will be put on hold until drivetrain parts are all in the truck.



If the rear squats too much one the motor/tranny/tcase are in, I have another add a leaf from a 4 inch lift kit to help with the suspension.



drivetrain will probably be going in next weekend!

(oh and I got a new phone, so better pictures will be popping up in case you were wondering why they got better all of a sudden )
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:26 AM   #73
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Default Re: tragdor

You'll have to drag this thing down south and we'll go wheeling.

On another note, do you still have that pinion yoke for a 60?
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:31 AM   #74
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I think I may have it around somewhere! i may have stuck it in the old housing. will check tomorrow and pm ya if i found it.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:58 AM   #75
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Cool thanks mater
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