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Old 08-09-2016, 10:18 PM   #26
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Work continues but not at the rate of progress I'd hoped. The paint is in bad shape. The crew cab was originally white and the red is flaking off in several places. Not to mention it was a 'slope' paint job and they cut a few corners. The paint on the original hood and fenders is cracked like a weather checked tire. I find this unacceptable! So it will be repainted. The fact that I have no real body work experience is irrelevant!

All the internet experts says that second coat of paint needs to come off and to do it right, because there is no telling the condition of the underlying white paint, I should take it to bare metal I figure I'll use paint stripper as much as possible and see where that gets me.

On a positive note the engine and drivetrain are back together.
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:27 AM   #27
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Default Re: TV Build

I thought you said it was a "contractor" truck, not a slope truck?
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:15 PM   #28
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Default Re: TV Build

Literally hundreds of contactors on the slope, Nate. Although the number is shrinking daily. They vary in size from one man shops to ASRC, PEAK, CH2MHill etc.
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:08 PM   #29
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It is both. But when I say contractor I mean model of truck.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:06 PM   #30
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Default Re: TV Build

Why not hit the paint with a Scotch wheel and see what comes off? Stripper to metal seems like overkill, and you can always go that route later...
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:23 PM   #31
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I expect it'll be a combo of techniques. The red over white is flaking in all the hard to get places like door jambs. The cracked paint is on fenders and hood, easy to strip. Did one fender in about an hour.
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Old 08-12-2016, 03:40 PM   #32
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Flaking is usually caused by incorrect surface prep, cracking by paint too thick. PM sent.
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:05 PM   #33
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I rolled the chassis back into the shop and set the cab on yesterday. It's going to take 3.75" of body lift under the front to level the cab and have 1" between the cab and frame at the hump. The only major surprise is that the steering column is .5" short. Well there was one other, the steering boxes are different between the two trucks. Not a big deal just something to note.

My steel stretcher is broken so I will be making a splice in the lower steering column. Nothing fits over the shaft as tight as I'd like so I think I'll cut up the second one.

I'll start taking pics again soon so this thread stays mildly interesting.
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:26 PM   #34
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Default Re: TV Build

Scott if you need I have a large selection of tubing if you give me a I.D. I can grab you some and if I don't have it I have a lathe.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:17 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g202johnson View Post
Scott if you need I have a large selection of tubing if you give me a I.D. I can grab you some and if I don't have it I have a lathe.
thanx. the column is square shaped with the corners rounded and the flats relieved. The diagonal dimension is about 11/16ths. This part slides inside sleeve of similar shape.

Before you cut anything, I have another complete shaft and I'm going to cut a section from the outer sleeve. If it is not a good snug fit then cutting something special will probably be the ticket.

I got another job to do tomorrow so it'll be a day or so before I get back to it.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:38 AM   #36
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I got the other job done and couldn't wait. I cut up a perfectly good column to make an extension.

I cut this out of the upper part of the lower column. Drilled and tapped holes for the bolts. They hold it in place while I weld then will be used for plug welds.



final product




something to note, the columns are anodized to prevent rust, it's kinda like galvanizing. I put the piece I added and the cut end of the other shaft in acid for 10 minutes to remove the anodizing.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:40 PM   #37
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Body lift blues





Looks like I'll have to lower the sway bar to connect the radiator and transmission lines. I've ordered a metal drivers side CAC tube that I can cut down. I need to find a stock passenger side CAC tube. The rig has one that is part of the air compressor kit. I don't want to cut it up cause I am trying to keep the kit complete for resale.
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:12 PM   #38
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Seems similar to changing transmissions on the dump truck, every problem you solve creates at least two more!
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:15 PM   #39
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Well I hope that I don't create more problems while solving others!!! I discover enough simply as the result of lifting the front of the body. Today was transmission cooler lines, cut, fitted and flushed. Then on to wiring. I needed to repair a ground and add a couple backups. The bad ground is what caused the tranny failure. While doing that I found that the battery ground won't reach the battery. I checked the positive and found the same problem. These newish rigs are tightly packed puzzles. Moving the ground to a different place on the engine wasn't much trouble. Rerouting the starter wire wasn't so easy.

I also noticed that the master cylinders are different. The one for the integrated brake controller option has a third sensor so another couple tasks have been added to the to do list. This has also made me wonder if the software will eventually need to be changed...
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:48 PM   #40
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One of the things I had to do was lower the sway bar to clear the radiator hose. Nothing is ever easy. The mount is not a simple flat plate. A piece of 1.5" square tube with a piece added on one side to compress the bushing and a relief cut on the top. Clears the steering by just enough



Unfortunately lowering it causes a problem with the suspension at full bump. There is 4" of up travel and 3" between the steering and sway bar. I have hit the bump stops on my f350 several times so this has to be solved.

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Old 11-08-2016, 06:52 PM   #41
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Next thing I tried was turning the sway bar upside down. That solved the suspension problem and the lower radiator hose can be connected even tho it rests on the sway bar. But flipping it means reworking the tranny cooler lines :-\ I think I will just get rid of most of the hard line and use hose.
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:59 AM   #42
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Default Re: TV Build

PM sent.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:31 PM   #43
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PM received
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:33 PM   #44
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Continue to chip away at the little things.

The radiator/heater line extension.



You can also see the modification to the steering where it passes thru the firewall. Impossible to tell what was done unless you've looked at an unmodified real close. Basically the shaft has a big plastic sleeve that rides inside that rubber bushing. The sleeve had to be pushed up (hammered) and an inch cut off so the column would line up with the steering box.


CAC tube needs mods to fit, no surprise



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Old 11-12-2016, 05:51 PM   #45
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Got enough parts installed to try and run it. It won't
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:43 PM   #46
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The rig ran when I started this project

A couple hours of trouble shooting and no miracles have happened. Here is what I know and have done. I swapped everything over from the original rig except the in cab wiring. Computers, crash sensors, fuel shut off, instrument panel, ignition switch, engine harness, computer and other engine modules were swapped.

The original rig had a bunch of additional wiring for the VMAC compressor, Chelsea hydraulics, PTO, idle up controls and open door alarms that were removed.

Where I'm at now:

The engine will fire off nice and clean after turning over for a minute or so. It dies as soon as I let off the starter. It stays running if I hold the key in the start position. I can press the petal and rev it up. Let go of the key and it dies right away.

The instrument cluster acts odd. Check engine light on, wrench light on, message says check gauges, needles flutter for a minute or so when the key is turned on and sometimes freeze in place when key is turned off. The heater fan blows on low and turns off but doesn't blow harder when the dial is turned up.

My scanner won't connect to the rigs computer. The scanner worked before I began and it still works on my other truck.

I disconnected the starter solenoid and turn key to start and can hear the injectors and the low pressure fuel pump runs until I can hear fuel returning to the tank.

I have fuel at the engine filter and the engine oil filter drain back is working as it should.

I made a lot of engine upgrades. There is always a possibility I put some part together wrong. Also a possibility one of the engine modules took a dump during the project.

The whole cab electronics behavior and the fact my scanner won't connect lead me to think I need to start there. Something is wrong in the cab wiring or the connection between the cab and engine wiring. They come together in the fuse box under the dash. I have checked all the fuses but not the relays. There are a bunch of both.
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Old 11-13-2016, 11:27 AM   #47
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Default Re: TV Build

Def. Sounds electrical in nature. With all of the extra pto controls I wonder if there is a safety switch missing somewhere.
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Old 11-13-2016, 01:17 PM   #48
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yeah, my thots too. There was more than one safety switch in the old system. I also remember having trucks that wouldn't allow the engine to start with a door open. I have the front doors off right now

I swapped in the the fuse box that came with the cab and now it starts and runs.

Still a list of troubleshooting to do. No glow plug light when key turned on and the boost pressure gauge doesn't move. Fan still doesn't work right but the scanner works.

Found a fuel leak after it had been running awhile. Looks to be coming from the cover that hides the fuel spring. It could be one of the fittings but they all seem tight.

It is slow to start even when hot. I'm not sure it that is related to the glow plug indicator or something else like fuel pressure bleeding off due to the leak.

Anyway I am much happier. It is a very long ways from being done but it can move under its own power.
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Old 11-13-2016, 07:44 PM   #49
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this is a bit frustrating. I guess I'm on a mission to figure out what the differences are in the two fuse boxes. I'm not writing this thinking you guys can offer any detailed ideas. I either write it out here or on my note pad.

To keep things straight the f250fb is the one that came with the cab I am installing. The f550fb is from the original cab.

The rig runs with the f250fb as described in earlier post. Tho the heater, boost gauge and glow plugs don't work. There may be other stuff I haven't discovered yet.

With the f550fb installed the rig starts and dies immediately when the key is released.

I started to futz with the f250fb and found that most of the unused fuse positions won't hold a fuse. The prongs that hold the fuse legs are all stretched out like they had two fuses stuck in them. Based on the fuse block diagram I think I am going to need some of these fuse locations.

so

I put the f550fb back in and pulled everything that is not in the f250fb. The rig still starts and dies. I started pulling everything except what is required to make the rig run. I didn't pull everything at once. I removed a couple fuses at a time. It still starts and dies but sometimes ran for a couple of seconds before dying. A couple of times it stayed running until I turned on the lights, then it died instantly. I could not reproduce the cases where it stayed running until I turned on the lights.

Now that I think about it I had to splice in the light switch connector. The one from the f250 cab had been cut off so I took the one off the f550 and spliced it in. The wire colors were the same so I didn't give it any thot. Just matched the colors and soldered it up. IIRC the lights worked when I had the f250fb installed. I'll have to go back and check that.

I also need to trace out the upfitter switch wiring to see if there is anything going on there.

The harness includes a whole bunch of wires that are for PTO and accessory installs. I have found the builders documentation from ford, 2015 , and need to check the wires to make sure they aren't still connected somewhere they shouldn't be.

enough. now out to the shop for some more trouble shooting...
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:52 PM   #50
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While wiring harnesses may all be the same, fuse boxes are not.
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