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Old 11-14-2016, 12:42 PM   #51
wasillashack
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As I alluded to in my PM, connectors may connect but the pinouts may be different. I ran into this on a '70 Lincoln I put a rear clip on. The connectors did connect, but the wiring had two wires reversed, blew a fuse every time I turned the lights on. A mid year change from Ford. Little things like this can drive you nuts.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:34 PM   #52
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Still plugging along. Some pics from the last few days of tinkering.

This is the extension I made to connect the radiator fill bottle to the heater hose



Modifications to the CAC tubes

Passenger side (forgot to take an after)




Had a conflict with the AC line and made a redneck bender


Drivers side. The stock one is plastic and I cut it and duct taped it so I could run the engine. The aftermarket one arrived last night. Still need to touch up the paint.


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Old 11-15-2016, 07:01 PM   #53
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As far as the fuse boxes go I disassembled both of them to see the internal differences. There are too many to list and some parts I don't understand. They aren't like the days of old. They contain a few chips that I haven't bothered to research. Some of the circuits marked unused in the book are usable after installing the little clips needed to hold the fuse. Some circuits don't have the posts soldered in and until I am certain I need them I'll leave'm that way.

After tracing many of the circuits then comparing to the wiring I decided to run the f250 fuse box. It was that or swap the cab harness. The rig starts and runs fine. The only things that I know for sure that aren't working are the fan and boost gauge. The heater fan worked with the f550fb and the boost gauge may have something else going on. There are things I can't test yet like the tow/haul function, the lights, the AC, anti-lock brakes and the integrated brake controller. I am sure there is more that I just haven't thot of yet.

I think it's good enough to start reassembling some of the dash stuff and buttoning up the engine compartment wiring. I still need to figure out what to do about a fan shroud system. Hacking the factory one won't be as clean as I like. I'd also like to find the deflector that goes between the fan and the engine then maybe make a better fitting shroud.
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:44 AM   #54
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making progress

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Old 02-11-2017, 09:50 AM   #55
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Thats a nice color
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:31 PM   #56
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I bought one of these "deals" off of Craigslist for 4K. Looks the same except someone took the VMAC off, the PTO is still connected to a 12kw AC generator, and it is a 2006. Mine has around 15,000 hours on the engine and 95,000 miles. The factory hour meter is pegged out at 9999.

Mine has a similar but not so similar problem to yours. It will start just fine, but the gauge cluster will turn off randomly. I looked up the ritchie number and the guy paid about 3500 for the truck. Having registered it, mud flaps, and lights I figure he broke even. I think he just wanted it gone.

We drove it to Anchorage, no problems...other than the gauge cluster and running lights taking a nap.

The gauge culster is an important part of the truck. Lots of people with these trucks have problems with them. The accessory power relay that lets the radio run after the key is turned off also does things like power windows, running lights, etc is inside it. My relay has a loose connection (I think?) as this was a common symptom. If we bang on the instrument cluster part of the dashboard everything can come back on.

There were other problems described but I don't remember the specifics since mine didn't have those problems!!! I would look into the dash cluster. They can be rebuilt and sent back to you for around $300. They can exchange yours out and reprogram the odometer/hour meter. I think they also have to program the VIN number in it for it to work correctly???

I bought another 2006 crew cab F550 for 4K with an engine in unknown condition. I wanted to make one perfect truck for me, make the other run, and sell it. I'm kind of loosing interest in the whole mess...
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:22 PM   #57
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Interesting on the gauge cluster. The one in my 05 F350 has stopped 2 or 3 times over the 12 years I've had it. Kinda bothersome when blasting down the highway and look down to find it not working. When I restarted the engine it always came back on.

I was told that the engine computer, cluster and cab module all have the VIN number stored. My scanner reads the engine computer VIN. By the time I am done all will probably be different. I think the only thing that really matters in the engine computer but as I think about it I bet the speedo will be off cause the truck it came from (F250 #1) had different gears and tires.

How does that genny work? Does it use a drive shaft from the PTO? I'm interested cause I plan to put a small genset on the rig for power tools.

I also picked up totaled F250 (#2) for parts, no engine, has a good 5r110 & 271. I'll rob all the little parts I need for the cab and part out or save stuff as spares for the F350.

If I was doing it all over again I think I would repower with a 12v and 6 speed like I'm doing on the suburban.
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:25 PM   #58
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After first coat of clear. I found one good spot

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Old 02-11-2017, 07:10 PM   #59
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Interesting on the gauge cluster. The one in my 05 F350 has stopped 2 or 3 times over the 12 years I've had it. Kinda bothersome when blasting down the highway and look down to find it not working. When I restarted the engine it always came back on.

I was told that the engine computer, cluster and cab module all have the VIN number stored. My scanner reads the engine computer VIN. By the time I am done all will probably be different. I think the only thing that really matters in the engine computer but as I think about it I bet the speedo will be off cause the truck it came from (F250 #1) had different gears and tires.

How does that genny work? Does it use a drive shaft from the PTO? I'm interested cause I plan to put a small genset on the rig for power tools.

I also picked up totaled F250 (#2) for parts, no engine, has a good 5r110 & 271. I'll rob all the little parts I need for the cab and part out or save stuff as spares for the F350.

If I was doing it all over again I think I would repower with a 12v and 6 speed like I'm doing on the suburban.
The generator is hydraulic run off of the PTO pump. I think the gauge cluster has to be working to make the governor work. : )

It has a full cooler, tank, etc. Were your hoses cut off right at the rear of the passenger side of the cab? Your truck probably had one. At the fall ritchie brothers auction they had one 2006 550 sell for around 6k that had the hoses, but a plate on the PTO. The generator is 8kw, not 12kw like I said earlier. I've got the VMAC deicing switch, but no compressor or control panel. That would have been fun to have.

They guy we bought the truck didn't care what was in the box. When I got under the thing and found the hydraulic pto pump on an automatic I had to buy it. I wanted to build a 5 yard dump truck using a trailer axle as a tag...but insurance companies probably wouldn't want to cover me in an accident if I went over the sticker GVWR. The city has no problem charging road taxes at any weight. My insurance company said they would cover a school bus converted into a dump truck... Whatever... I'm looking for a 26500 GVWR box truck to convert.

There is one guy on Craigslist trying to get 12k for one of these red trucks. Just put on a new transmission too.

I paid 4k for a 2006 F550 crew cab 12 foot box truck. There is a lifter in the pass side battery tray. I'm tempted to take it to different strokes and get it running to sell, but 550s seem to move slowly on Craigslist and I'm worried that they will come in over 7k to repair. I think I need to pull the glow plugs or injectors to check the compression and see if it is worth rebuilding the heads. Not to mention the guy who sold it to me double assigned the title and the DMV won't take it. He isn't answering my text messages...
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After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


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Old 02-11-2017, 09:54 PM   #60
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ooooo a hydraulic genset! I would like one of those!!! I removed the Vmac and all the parts are still on the bench. I could never use 75cfm. Once in a while I think about trying to run it w/an electric motor for the shop.

Yes mine was a box truck but the box had been removed, the wiring cut and the hyd hoses removed. The controls for the pto and compressor worked but couldn't be load tested. The engine ran fine but needed a tranny. The original had grounded thru the pump and broke the gear. Check the engine to chassis grounds real good.

I hate those kinds of title problems.
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Old 02-28-2017, 08:20 PM   #61
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I picked up a wrecked XLT and decided that I need electric everything in the new build. What a chore!!! I would probably not recommend this upgrade. First pull a huge harness out of the donor cab then pull the dash, another large harness and GEM computer.

I got all the wiring swapped into the new build, buttoned up and it still starts and runs! I am sure there will be some surprises but all the basic stuff still works.

Next R&R all the window motors and door lock parts.

Unfortunately the donor did not have any of the switches or bezels for the doors so I am on the hunt for a set.
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Old 03-01-2017, 02:44 AM   #62
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Our 01 Dually is all power, it has the common Chevy issues, gas gauge works periodically, have to pull the bed to replace a $12 part, front passenger window regulator quit, easy to replace, took less than an hour, drivers side remote mirror stopped working in one direction. Moral of this story, all this technology is wonderful, when it works!
I don't think any brand is immune, the more accessories, wiring, relays, switches etc, the more opportunities for failure.
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Old 03-06-2017, 11:07 PM   #63
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playing with ideas. I have a feeling that it will be much easier to draw than to build

that didn't work as planned.....

I guess I need to get the rest of my software loaded on this machine
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:41 AM   #64
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Our 01 Dually is all power, it has the common Chevy issues, gas gauge works periodically, have to pull the bed to replace a $12 part, front passenger window regulator quit, easy to replace, took less than an hour, drivers side remote mirror stopped working in one direction. Moral of this story, all this technology is wonderful, when it works!
I don't think any brand is immune, the more accessories, wiring, relays, switches etc, the more opportunities for failure.
I don't mind my crank window, rubber floor, no radio trucks. Just need a heater, lights and wipers. My newest truck has cruise.. talk about fan-cee!
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:35 PM   #65
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I don't mind my crank window, rubber floor, no radio trucks. Just need a heater, lights and wipers. My newest truck has cruise.. talk about fan-cee!
ok, you prefer manual stuff, what does that have to do with MY build?
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:00 PM   #66
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Why do you bother to post if you don't want comments? Go fly a kite!
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:12 PM   #67
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playing with ideas. I have a feeling that it will be much easier to draw than to build

that didn't work as planned.....

I guess I need to get the rest of my software loaded on this machine

Thats pretty cool that you can do that. Is that the kind of software you can link to a table and have it cut panels out?
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:37 PM   #68
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Thats pretty cool that you can do that. Is that the kind of software you can link to a table and have it cut panels out?
No, this is the free version of Sketchup. It's not as powerful as full blown CADD programs but it's pretty darn good. I've heard of people exporting cut files. It probably requires buying the 'professional' version of the software.

Google "sketchup warehouse" and check out some of the stuff people have posted. Some are really high quality, others not so much. I got that cab from the warehouse.
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Old 03-07-2017, 09:37 PM   #69
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It may be the perspective, or scale, it appears to have pretty low clearance under the bed side toolboxes. Just an observation. Probably OK for a strictly highway rig, but snows like we have had lately might be a problem.
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Old 03-09-2017, 01:07 PM   #70
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Getting closer. I am still toying with the idea of making a dump bed. that's why the rear section is so plain. It is 96"x 90"
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:17 PM   #71
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Pretty clean design, do you plan to have the forward storage boxes to remain stationary while the flat deck dumps? Our old flat bed dump truck had a small stationary deck with an engine driven welder generator on it. Was pretty handy. Also if the flat deck dumps, the skirts behind the rear wheels will interfere with dumping. The trailer hitch on the Babe Magnet had to be trimmed to allow full range of the dump bed. The under bed tool box remained stationary also.
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:29 AM   #72
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Not to clutter up your thread or go off topic here, but I'll tell you one reason why someone might prefer crank windows. :-) When the relay in the gauge cluster I was talking about goes out the dash, radio, and stuff like power windows stop working. It doesn't prevent a truck from driving down the highway, but if you can't bang on the dashboard and magically get the relay to reseat itself then you can't roll up the windows. Some people on the Ford diesel website just put a toggle switch in to activate the accessory circuit. Might be something to think about in order to bulletproof you're super duty while it's under surgery. Not being able to roll up windows is was one of the major complaints about the relay.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:29 PM   #73
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Thanx Grant, that's good tech, not clutter. I am surprised that there is a relay *inside* the cluster. I will look at a bypass. Seems like a nice safety feature too.

I have always had manual windows. It's the manual locks that get me. It's too hard for short guys like me to reach across and unlock the other doors. There are other ways to do the locks but I had a donor so I went for it. For the inexperienced, pulling a super duty dash is a piece of cake. Half dozen bolts and the whole thing comes out.

The donor rig only came with one rear lock switch and all but one ebay salvage yard wouldn't ship to Alaska. The one I found that would is in Canada and they are in route. All four positions w/bezels for 99$ plus 25$ shipping. The local yards want 100$ for the drivers and 50 each for the other positions
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:39 PM   #74
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Steel is being cut for the boxes and tank behind the cab. Was hoping to have it today but no luck.

My buffing supplies did arrive today so trying my hand at that. I've found that my wet sanding was not good enough. I went to 2000 grit done by hand and the 3M prefect-it #1 is not cutting them out. That or I didn't get all the 1200 grit scratches out with the 2000. I really don't want to sand anymore, especially not by hand. I've been reading about trizact but dang it is expensive. I'll be consulting the gurus to decide what's next.

On other fronts I knew and reinforced that knowledge, that aligning doors & fenders in a PITA. I just can't get good lines and have had to step away several times because of the frustration. I wonder if some of the issues are related to the different parts from different rigs. I also warped the fenders a bit when I debadged them (welded up the holes).
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Old 03-18-2017, 01:59 AM   #75
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If you are still color sanding, we used a mixture of water and liquid dishwashing soap in squeeze bottles to keep the area being sanded wet, the finer grit paper didn't load up with paint as badly. One of the guys who painted several cars for me swore he used a mixture of transmission fluid and buffing compound, I never witnessed it personally, so I can't attest to the accuracy. I do know his paint finishes looked like glass.
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