Alaska 4x4 Network

Go Back   Alaska 4x4 Network > Alaska 4x4 Network Forums > Special Interest > Grant-o-vations

Grant-o-vations Building something crazy? Trying something totally out of the box? Post it here. Lets see what all those wacky minds are doing out there. These posts should be somewhat technical in nature, but dont necessarily have to be 4x4 related.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-09-2005, 12:37 AM   #1
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default Home made insert double beadlocks

I made a home made double beadlock by using two rock stomper style clamps, but that takes a lot of material. I origionally wanted to do a double beadlock using an insert like Staz Works. In order to do that I needed a bead seat and the rim blanks were $150 a piece. The tires needed a 24" rim. This project will use 16" rims so a stock rim can be cut up for parts. I ended up making everything but the lug nut center portion myself on the 24" rims.

I was talking to Gus today and worked out a few of the design issues myself. Once I actually drew up the rim in CAD, I'm not sure they were really issues anyway...

One of the issues I had was using a tube with an insert style double beadlock. Take a look at the rim below. The insert would be unsupported over the drop center part of the rim. This might be a problem with a 6" rim, but with a widened rim there may be enough support. Take a look at both pictures and tell me what you think.

If its a problem I drafted in a blue piece to level it out.

This drawing below was moldeled after a 15" rim. I don't have any 16" rims free. They should be pretty close. Even though this drawing is accurate, its only to show the problem.

The blue part is .050", and the green is .3" (just for scale).



Here is the same drawing, but 7" wider. This would be a 13" wide rim:



My feeling is that I won't have a problem with the tube pusing on the unsupported part of the insert. The insert is "floating" in that picture because I didn't want it covering the other colors.

For the actual insert I thought about a piece of plastic from Alaska Rubber. So I messed with it.

Here is the plastic next to a 1/2" socket. The piece I have measures .248" thick. They sell it thicker.



Here is a bend I did by heating the surface of the plastic with a propane torch. It bent pretty easily.



Here is a bend I did by folding it real hard.



So the bands can be made by heating the rubber around a form (did I hear weed burner???) or by using a metal rolling machine (what ever they are called). I tried heating a pipe and rolling it over the pipe, but I got bored so I just heated the plastic directly. Once I made the bend it flet like a wet noodle. So then bent the other end with my hands. As I was walking inside I noticed that the heated bend was still too hot to hold...so I decided to wait until it cooled to make any more observations.

The bend made by heating appears to be as strong as the bend made by bending. If anything, the heat caused the plastic to get harder...which may or may not be a bad thing.

The cost to single bead lock the outside is more than the cost to put a flange on the rim (2 shells). The rim has to be widened either way. Plastic shouln't be more than $20 per rim and it cuts nicely with a skill/table saw.

Anyway, any thoughts? I don't know what the plastic cost would be, so thats still a deciding factor.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 12:18 PM   #2
deepmud
Full Member
 
deepmud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wasilla
Posts: 3,368
deepmud is on a distinguished road
Default

would you still need a standard beadlock outer, or does this work on a standard rim?

We could practice on my 39's
__________________
keep an eye out for miracles - you'll find 'em!
deepmud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 05:02 PM   #3
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

Can large diameter sch 40 PVC be used? Might be cost prohibitive, I don't really know. It seems making a smooth diameter out of the flat plastic might be difficult to achieve, though you could build one form and reuse. A single 90 degree bend will be different than a constant radius correct? I guess one wheel itself would work as the "form".
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 05:02 PM   #4
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Nope. This is just like a hummer beadlock.

You:
-put the back side of the rim on the ground.
-place tire on top
-put the "insert" (green cross section) into the tire
-put the top half of the rim on
-tighten the bolts holding the two rim halfs together.

The green insert keeps the tire from comming off the bead.

Tightening the bolts also sets the bead. Then air up.

I unmounted 4 tires thanks to bigsub and have the rims ready for the project. I just have to decide where to cut them.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 05:11 PM   #5
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Little Giant
Can large diameter sch 40 PVC be used? Might be cost prohibitive, I don't really know. It seems making a smooth diameter out of the flat plastic might be difficult to achieve, though you could build one form and reuse. A single 90 degree bend will be different than a constant radius correct? I guess one wheel itself would work as the "form".
Heating around the form may not be a good way to do it. When the flame was a few inches away from the tire it turned pretty soft. So some trial and error may be involved,

But one thing in our favor is the bend I made using pressure is staying and it didn't weaken to any noticable degree. It seems to take just as much force to bend it back straight as it did to make the bend. Because it is plastic I feel better with a heat assisted bend.

I would actually prefer to have the insert slightly over rolled. This way it would be easier to insert into the tire (the final insert diameter will be bigger than the bead diameter). I'd also like to find thick enough material that having a split in the band won't hurt anything (would make mounting MUCH easier). I've got some ideas for that. First thing is to find out how expensive the plastic is. I think its sold in the 8x4 sheet.

About the pipe, thats the first thing I thought about. Daniel used the sewer pipe at first with his hummer bead locks. But he offers 15, 16, 16.5, 17, 20 inch bead lock rims. I don't imagine there are that many sizes of sewer pipe, so they must be bade. If they are a single band, then they probably just weld them up (plastic weld of course!)
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 05:27 PM   #6
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logjam
Heating around the form may not be a good way to do it. When the flame was a few inches away from the tire it turned pretty soft. So some trial and error may be involved,

But one thing in our favor is the bend I made using pressure is staying and it didn't weaken to any noticable degree. It seems to take just as much force to bend it back straight as it did to make the bend. Because it is plastic I feel better with a heat assisted bend.

I would actually prefer to have the insert slightly over rolled. This way it would be easier to insert into the tire (the final insert diameter will be bigger than the bead diameter). I'd also like to find thick enough material that having a split in the band won't hurt anything (would make mounting MUCH easier). I've got some ideas for that. First thing is to find out how expensive the plastic is. I think its sold in the 8x4 sheet.

About the pipe, thats the first thing I thought about. Daniel used the sewer pipe at first with his hummer bead locks. But he offers 15, 16, 16.5, 17, 20 inch bead lock rims. I don't imagine there are that many sizes of sewer pipe, so they must be bade. If they are a single band, then they probably just weld them up (plastic weld of course!)
Why would the tire have to be near the rim while used as a form? I was thinking roll it around the rim with a little heat, let it cool, then do the actual installation. To get your extra diameter, wrap the wheel in something while doing the bending? Just enough material to give the extra diameter you want?

Agreed on the sewer pipe diameters. I don't know for the specific pipe he was using, but it seems with most piping anything after 6" goes in 2" increments. But maybe 16" nominal works?
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 06:53 PM   #7
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

I'm confused. What are you referring to? This?

"This way it would be easier to insert into the tire (the final insert diameter will be bigger than the bead diameter)."

The insert will be bigger than the rim hole, which is why it would be nice to over roll it slightly.

Your idea of using a rim with something wrapped around it as a form sounds great.

If the plastic is cheap enough I'll pick up a sheet. I'd like 3/8 to 1/2". Pictured was the 1/4".
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 07:36 PM   #8
bigun
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mountainair NM
Posts: 91
bigun is on a distinguished road
Default

Grant there is a guy on another forum who is expermenting using conveor belting to act as an insert. I'll try and find it for you
Here you go.

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....;f=16;t=002749

Last edited by bigun; 04-07-2006 at 08:35 PM.
bigun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 08:04 PM   #9
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Good find. But I wonder if it would be up to the duty of an innertube. An innertube will put a lot of pressure on the insert, the part of the insert over the drop center portion of the tube worries me.

Alaska Rubber does sell conveyor belting, but its expensive. That guy got his rubber for free. I'll ask about rubber on Monday. Its worth a shot. They sell rubber 12" wide and 1" thick by the foot. I think it was $21 a foot? I'm hoping the solid plastic is cheaper.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2005, 10:22 PM   #10
bigun
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mountainair NM
Posts: 91
bigun is on a distinguished road
Default

You are probably right, I am sure he is running tubeless.
bigun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 12:18 AM   #11
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logjam
I'm confused. What are you referring to? This?

"This way it would be easier to insert into the tire (the final insert diameter will be bigger than the bead diameter)."

The insert will be bigger than the rim hole, which is why it would be nice to over roll it slightly.

Your idea of using a rim with something wrapped around it as a form sounds great.

If the plastic is cheap enough I'll pick up a sheet. I'd like 3/8 to 1/2". Pictured was the 1/4".
This statement had me confused. "Heating around the form may not be a good way to do it. When the flame was a few inches away from the tire it turned pretty soft. So some trial and error may be involved" You made it sound like you couldn't use the rim as the form for shaping the plastic due to the heat near the tire. I don't see why the tire needs to be near it. I think I'm missing something, not sure what.

I was thinking about this more tonight. You ever rebead a tire using the ratchet-strap method, or a piece of rope set up like a tourniquet? Where someone wrap the strap or rope around the outer circumference of a time, and tightens it up causing the beads to bulge outward.

Anyway, I was imaging you rigging it up something like that. Could use a ratchet strap (or multiple) if working by yourself. Set you plastic in place and add some tension. Then start heating one end. As it curls around it will release a little tension, so it would be a lot of alternating of heating a small area, then retightening the straps. Would take a while, but seems like it would work.

I don't know what to wrap the rim with though, since it has to be flame proof. I'm sure you can scrounge something up though.
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 09:51 AM   #12
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Okay, I didn't mean to say tire. Too many thoughts in my head at the time I guess.

I learned of one method of forming UHMW from Norm. They soak it in near scalding water and when its pulled out its layed over a form and cools to keep the shape. Interesting idea, but I don't know if I'd have a tank big enough.

I've actually never found the ratchet strap tire mounting very efficient. I've mounted some real big bias ply tires and I find it easier to partially set the bead with tire spoons and then let the weight of the rim with a little help put pressure on the other side of the bead.

I just called Alaska Rubber.
-1/2" UHMW 4x10 feet - $315 - $1.97 per weight unit
-3/8" UHMW 4x10 feet - $222 - $1.85 per weight unit

A 4x10 sheet would make 2 sets of rims. (13" wide rims mounting 18.4x18.1 tires)
A 4x10 sheet should make 2 sets of rims up to about 14-15 wide depending on bead thickness.

So if 3/8 worked well, you'd be looking at $111 for one rim set in plastic. Around $28 per rim.

How about that?
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 11:37 AM   #13
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logjam
Okay, I didn't mean to say tire. Too many thoughts in my head at the time I guess.

I learned of one method of forming UHMW from Norm. They soak it in near scalding water and when its pulled out its layed over a form and cools to keep the shape. Interesting idea, but I don't know if I'd have a tank big enough.

I've actually never found the ratchet strap tire mounting very efficient. I've mounted some real big bias ply tires and I find it easier to partially set the bead with tire spoons and then let the weight of the rim with a little help put pressure on the other side of the bead.

I just called Alaska Rubber.
-1/2" UHMW 4x10 feet - $315 - $1.97 per weight unit
-3/8" UHMW 4x10 feet - $222 - $1.85 per weight unit

A 4x10 sheet would make 2 sets of rims. (13" wide rims mounting 18.4x18.1 tires)
A 4x10 sheet should make 2 sets of rims up to about 14-15 wide depending on bead thickness.

So if 3/8 worked well, you'd be looking at $111 for one rim set in plastic. Around $28 per rim.

How about that?
Yeah, I've never seen the method successful at actually rebeading a tire. But the example was just to describe a setup technique for bending the plastic.

How much is a 10' long x 16" dia. PVC or ABS pipe? Or was it established the dimensions won't work?
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 12:12 PM   #14
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

I don't know. Anyone here know were to get real big pipe?
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 12:36 PM   #15
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logjam
I don't know. Anyone here know were to get real big pipe?
Try calling Ferguson, should be in the phone book. Formally Alaska Pipe and Supply. Only idea I have, we don't deal with piping that large at my work. Any civils on this board?
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 12:52 PM   #16
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Called the wasilla branch and they thought I was crazy. They didn't have anything in their computer that big

Left a voice mail in anchorage 273-2100, try them too to see if we get different responses.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2005, 01:36 PM   #17
Advent
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Juneau, Fairbanks, Eagle River...I'm not even sure anymore.
Posts: 593
Advent is on a distinguished road
Default

When you deal with them, write down their quote and who gave it to you.

Every time I've been in there they've attempted to raise the price in the 10 minutes between my calling and coming to pick up.
__________________
Kyle Cuzzort, 1976 Toyota Land Cruiser; GIR
Advent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 04:56 PM   #18
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Norm had a really good idea that I will expand on here. His idea was to use a steel insert. Greer Tank has the ability to roll square tubing in a perfect radius. So we'd get 2 16.3 or whatever rings rolled out of 1x1 square tubing. Then make some sort of bolting supports between the two square tubing rings to keep them pushing on the side wall.

This same idea could be expanded upon to use flat bar or solid round bar (solid round bar being made-at-home because its easier to form).

Plastic is still a better option overall.

My current rim design is using even less of the stock rim. Right now I think I'll cut the bead seats off both sides, keep the center, and ditch the rest! Movies and pictures to come this weekend.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2005, 09:55 PM   #19
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

The build begins...

Gus let me borrow his rim machine. The center hub was big. The right size for dodge and ford rims, but not chevy rims. So I turned it down on a lathe.



I couldn't find anything metal to bolt it to, so I got a wooden thing I found. Only 2 bolts holding it on. The two front ones wouldn't see anything anyway.



There are three black arrows. Sunday morning I'm going to cut the outer bead off, then the inner bead, then cut the center. I already have one drum. Should be interesting!

__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 12:36 AM   #20
Little Giant
Bitter Member
 
Little Giant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Anchorage, AK
Posts: 3,239
Little Giant is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm lost, please elaborate for my dumbass. Thanks.
__________________
Little Giant
Liaison for Alaska Extreme Fourwheelers
VP for Alaska Outdoor Access Alliance


My name is Cactus.
Little Giant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 12:56 AM   #21
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Looking at the rim sideways we will have these parts:

stock rim bead seat -> 10ga steel drum -> 20 hole flange with rim center welded to it -> 20 hole flange -> 10ga steel drum -> stock rim bead seat

The first bead seat is welded to the drum and the 20 hole flange with rim center.
The second is welded to the 20 hole flange and steel drum.

The three cut arrows represent the cuts. One to get the center, and two more to get the bead seats. There will be a doughnut looking chunk of stock rim left over.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 01:03 AM   #22
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Here is a ghetto picture of the cut lines. Hopefully the rim machine does a better job.

__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 03:19 AM   #23
Jez
Registered Member
 
Jez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: England, Slovakia, Hungary depends on the season
Posts: 199
Jez is on a distinguished road
Default

Not sure if its of interest but the industrial flooring rubber looks pretty good fro beadlock inserts, its 10mm thick and steel belted, you can cut it easily with a metal working jigsaw or guilotine and it can be rivetted together with a joining plate - any good ??
Jez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 02:12 PM   #24
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default

Maybe. We have a place up here called alaska rubber and they carry conveyor belt material. I heard of someone using it, but they had scraps left over from an old system. Brand new it might be expensive.

Cool progress!

Gus gave me his vice and an air drill. The only problem is that the air drill uses WAY too much air if I want to use the plasma cutter at the same time. Plus, I don't need slow speeds for the plasma cutter. He supplied a pulley mounted on a 1/2" shaft, but my hand drills were 3/8. I didn't feel like working with a hole hog....so I found a reduced shank 1/2" drill bit, put the pulley on, and tightened the set screw. Perfect!



Things like that add to the low tech DIY approach. The vice is vice gripped to the wooden thing that I found.

I managed to integrate even my camera tripod into the setup...



So there is the setup. I used a long belt because the drill and the rim machine pulleys are not parallel. Long belts care less. The tension on the belt didn't need to be too high because of how easy the rim machine turns. There is probably 5:1 reduction in the rim machine.
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2005, 02:13 PM   #25
Logjam
Superchic
 
Logjam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2036
Posts: 3,443
Logjam has disabled reputation
Default



The idea here is that all the smoke from paint and plasma gets sucked into the stove pipe. Hopefully the hot metal pieces go otu the bottom of the T and the smoke goes into the plastic hose.

Next you may wonder how I clamp a ground to the rim when it needs to turn. Well, I turn the drill on and set the trigger lock. Then just hold the wire wheel on the rim for a few revs. Using a length of 12ga copper wire looped around the rims drop center will provide the ground. The weight of the ground clamp keeps pressure on it. Effectively we have 2 12ga wires that need to take 50-60A at 110v. Will be fine for short periods.



Since I took apart my plasma cutter to interface it with the computer, pressing the "home" key on the keyboard turns the torch on. Pressing it again makes it turn off. So these are the events required to cut the rim:

-Turn on drill and set the trigger lock
-press home key on keyboard
-catch rim piece as it falls off
-press home key on keyboard
-Turn off drill



I was frightened to see the stove pipe start to glow from the shower of metal. It looked pretty crazy in person since the zinc was sparkling and glowing like a sparkler. Other than that it went great...except for the part where I was too busy taking pictures and the piece I was cutting fell on to the torch and tripod!



Poor cheap plastic camera tripod, oh, the pipe doesn't look the same either...



Nice cut quality, eh?
__________________
Bobby after seeing pictures of "the tires"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longfield
After seeing these tires I think that the 30 splines would get scared and go limp and not go in the housing! I think these tires have rockwells writen all over them!


www.brokenyoke.com

Last edited by Logjam; 10-23-2005 at 02:17 PM.
Logjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -9. The time now is 09:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Alaska 4x4 Network